Scallops.
If you have not heard of the Mata Hari restaurant, where
have you been for the past 18 years? Mata Hari Restaurant and Wine Bar has
been one of the foremost restaurants in the Pattaya fine dining scene. Run
by Louis Noll and his wife, he will modestly disagree with the ‘fine dining’
appellation, so I will instead call it superb food in a fine dining
environment.
After some years on Second Road, Mata Hari is now
situated on the ground floor of the Nirvana building at the top of Thappraya
Road on the left hand side driving towards Jomtien from South Pattaya. It is
divided into two sections, with one third of the building a dedicated wine
bar, and the other two thirds the restaurant proper. The décor is classic
Euro style, with comfortable carver chairs and large tables which are all
well spaced, so conversations can remain private. There are marble floors,
heavy linen tablecloths and excellent quality napery. The staff are in
classical long black aprons and white shirts/blouses and waistcoats, and are
friendly, well trained and efficient. The spotless kitchen is against the
far wall, and overseeing it all, is the ubiquitous Louis Noll himself.
During the last 18 years, the Dining Out team has eaten
many times at Mata Hari, and will often drop by for a glass of wine to
finish an evening. And each time we will always be welcomed by Louis
himself. He is mine host in the traditional manner.
On this particular evening we had come to taste some dishes from his updated
menu, which reflect the international background of Louis himself, though he
does not like the “international” adjective being applied to his creations.
“The food is European” said Louis firmly; however, there are many from the
Asian.
Before looking into the menu and the new items, it is worth your while
looking at the wine list. Selected for performance balanced against price,
most wines are around the B. 1,000 - 2,000 range, though there are premium
wines for those who wish. On a whim, we chose an Argentine white, labeled as
a Sauvignon Blanc/Chardonnay from the Finca El Portillo vineyards and good
drinking at B. 1,050. It was also served at the correct temperature, a rare
event these days.
Take your time reading the menu as well, as there are many dishes not
readily available elsewhere. From Louis’ new additions there are dishes such
as Nasi Goreng and chicken satays and Turkish lamb kebabs. There is also a
pork and chicken shawarma and a white asparagus soup or a smoked pork rib
with a sauerkraut accompaniment.
Soups range in price from B. 210-280, and salads B. 350-410. Dishes marked
as entrees come in at B. 390-420, including a trio of smoked fish with
salmon, eel and trout.
Italian offerings include pasta dishes at B. 350-410, and of course in the
mains there are many steaks (including a Canadian one) with these being at
the top end at B. 620-890 with your choice of sauces.
Despite all the interesting new dishes, for my entrée I chose an all-time
favorite in an Oysters Kilpatrick. These were very plump, and were totally
enjoyable. This dish was also notable in that there were six oysters and not
the more usual five masquerading as half a dozen! I also sampled Louis’ home
made pate, and it was excellent.
For my main course, I returned to the entrees, and selected the US scallops
on a bed of spinach and cheese on the shell. This was a superb dish with
plump scallops on a very ‘more-ish’ spinach and cheese base, which even
prompted me to ask for a spoon, so I could get every last bit of it!
We finished with a liqueur, and for me it was the combination called a
“Rusty Nail” made from Drambuie and Scotch whisky, which I sat on and
savored while discussing the restaurant business with Louis Noll himself.
Highest recommendation possible!
Mata Hari Restaurant and Wine Bar, 482/57 Thappraya Road (ground floor
Nirvana Place), telephone 038 259 799, fax 038 259 798,[email protected],
www.mataharirestaurant.com.
Open six days (closed Mondays), Wine Bar from 5 p.m. and restaurant from 6
p.m., secure on-street parking. Book!
