The Mantra restaurant is renowned for doing things in its
own special way, and the Chakana Wine Dinner was no exception to that rule.
When you think South American wines, you immediately think of Chile, but
this was a young winery from Argentina that was not well known in Thailand
at all. The Mantra has changed all that!
Francisco
Garcia Burgos.
There is always the tendency to launch new wines/wineries with geographical
technical appraisals put forward in the well-worn formal approach. Mantra
did the opposite, with the gregarious export manager of Chakana Winery,
Francisco Garcia Burgos, mingling with the guests at the reception and then
touring the tables to gain their opinions and answer any questions. All very
laid back, and all very “Mantra”.
In an exclusive interview with PMTV, Francisco spoke with pride on the
winery, which has become well known in South America for its Malbec grapes,
with one of their vintages gaining 92 points from the international judge
Robert Parker. Francisco also informed the viewers that they are well down
the track with a fully organic vineyard, no chemical fertilizers.
The reception wine was a Casillero del Diablo, Brut Chardonnay, Concha Toro
from Chile, which went down very well with the guests. I heard no complaints
at all.
Sea bass.
With wine dinners, it is always necessary to try and
match the food and wine to complement each other. The executive chef for the
Mantra (and Amari) is an Australian, Leonard Faust. He has impressed me over
the past couple of years with his mastery of differing cuisines, and this
wine dinner again showed his mastery of his craft, with the first course (of
five) featuring a lamb tenderloin and baby spinach salad, goat cheese,
butternut pumpkin and home-made semi-dried tomatoes. (And I will wager
you’ve never had that before!)
The first course featured a
lamb tenderloin and baby spinach salad, goat cheese, butternut pumpkin and
home-made semi-dried tomatoes.
The first wine at the table, with Leonard’s lamb was a
Chakana Malbec 2012, a very pleasant ‘budget priced’ red. Surprisingly easy
to drink, and with high alcohol content, caution was required!
The second course was a spicy seafood and tomato broth, reminiscent in many
ways of the Thai tom yum goong. The wine was the Chakana Syrah 2012, which
held its head up well against the spicy broth.
The third course was designated as the ‘main’ and guests had the choice of a
grain fed beef tenderloin with chimichurri sauce, gratinated leek and
potatoes, buttered zucchini and pancetta, or pan-fried Andaman king sea bass
with parsley-parmesan crust, olive oil-balsamic soya sauce, oven baked wild
mushroom risotto in vine tomato. Those who chose the meat course enjoyed a
Chakana Estate Malbec 2012, whilst the seafood lovers had a Mezzacorona
Pinot Grigio (Italy) 2012. In the name of investigative journalism, I
sampled both wines, while eating the sea bass, which was superb. Still moist
with the outside crispy. The Estate Malbec was similar to the first wine,
but definitely heavier (and around 12 percent alc/vol.) and will take
cellaring. The white Pinot Grigio was very refreshing, and I liked it very
much. Do not cellar, drink it now! (And save a glass for me!)
The next course was an assortment of cheeses with a small baguette. Chef
Leonard picked some piquant flavors and we drank the Chakana Estate
Selection Malbec 2012. Each one of these Malbecs was increasingly heavy and
increasingly complex. Another good bottle to cellar, as these wines are only
18 months old.
The final course was biscuits with chocolate, cream cheese and a hazelnut
toffee. We continued with the Chakana Estate Selection Malbec 2012 with the
deserts. And we were replete!
The wine sponsor for the evening was Siam Winery, probably one of the most
dynamic wineries in Thailand working through their own Siam Winery Trading
Plus, with Key Account Manager Tamara Demeo on hand to answer any questions,
as well as Francisco Garcia Burgos regarding Chakana Estate. It is
worthwhile investigating the Mantra wine cellar to lay a couple of these
Chakana wines down. 2012 is a very young vintage, and they will improve with
some TLC in a cool cellar.
This was a most convivial evening, good food, good wine and good company
making for a most pleasant Thursday night at the Mantra. Thank you!