The “Via Apia Antica”. Drawing by Samuel
Chamberlain.
Rumours are that in Rome “Finger Lickin’ Good” Kentucky Fried Chicken is sold on
the Piazza Espagna. Or was it “Big Macs”? Nothing is sacred anymore, is it? I
would not be surprised if they are vending hot dogs in the Coliseum, planning
beauty contests of hundreds of negligee clad transvestites in the Forum Romano
and turn the Villa Borghese into a massage parlour with Karaoke facilities. What
will they think of next? Disney Land on the Via Apia Antica with a Rocky Horror
show in the catacombs?
Having
a break on the steps of the Monument to Victor Emanuel II in May 1956.
It wasn’t like that when my friend the “Bolle Andreas”, about which I have
written previously, and myself visited the eternal city in the summer of 1956.
All they tried to sell us were dirty postcards on the Via Veneto with no success
of course, as we were - being a couple of jaded old salts - quite immune for
this kind of temptations and, what the French call, “une peu blasé”.
Of the three great European cities I visited in the past, London, Paris and
Rome, I think I loved the last one best, although I have to admit that it was
quite a while ago that I was there last. The first time with the “Bolle” as
mentioned above and the second time in 1958 alone on my way to the southern part
of Italy and the island of Sicily. Things have changed so much in Europe during
the last thirty or forty years that I can’t be sure I would still be as
fascinated with Italy as I was in those days. At least it is a quieting thought
that after I have seen Rome I will be able to die peacefully. What a relieve!
“Rocca di Papa” in 1956.
Gastronomically, Rome was a paradise and we dined in simple “Trattorias”, in
elegant “Restorantes” as well as lunched just outside the city in “Albergos”, on
hard cheese, chunks of bread and “fiaschis” of refreshing country wine. From all
over the country fresh ingredients are brought into Rome, a true Epicurean
centre in a country known for its gastronomic sophistication. We loved to sit on
the terraces and look at the world passing by, a popular European pastime in the
summer and spring, but as in Amsterdam for example, also in the winter when the
terraces are closed in with glass screens and heated with overhead radiators to
keep the customers warm and comfortable.
We also visited the so-called “Castelli Romani”, little towns on the volcanic
Alban Hills with among them Castel Condolfo, site of the summer palace of the
Pope, Rocca di Papa or the Pope’s rock, a most picturesque place where I made
some paintings, and probably the most famous of all, Frascatti, just below the
old Roman town of Tusculum where, according to my information, Cato was born.
Frascatti is not only a scenic place but also known for its delicious white wine
named after the town “Frascatti”. Unfortunately, Frascatti wine travels badly
and is best when enjoyed on a terrace on the hill while overlooking the
woodlands and, in the distance, the haze of the greatest city of all, Rome. The
last time I was there I invited a Canadian nurse I met on a tour to join me for
lunch at Frascati, and it turned out that she was so overwhelmed - with the
atmosphere and the wine - that she didn’t want to return to Regina,
Saskatchewan, Canada. However; I believe that eventually she had to, the poor
thing.
The Italians have a great way with veal which is actually more a “texture” food
than a “flavour“ food if I make myself clear. The Chinese are known for the
emphases on texture as a form of gastronomic pleasure and in this respect veal
falls in the same category as, for instance, jelly fish or pig’s ears. They have
to be made tasty and that is what the Italians are masters in. I am very fond of
veal but unfortunately it is hellishly expensive these days and the best
substitute for it is pork. Our pork is excellent and the best cut to use for
mock veal cutlets is the pork filet.
One of the most famous Italian dishes, besides spaghetti and other pasta
concoctions, is the so called “Saltimbocca Romana”. Although it is called Romana
and served in practically all the fine restaurants in the eternal city,
according to Luigi Carnacina, one of Italy’s most famous chefs, this delicacy
actually originated in the city of Brescia in the province of Lombardy, in the
far north of the country. We have to take his word for it.
