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Dolf Riks’ Kitchen:
by internationally known writer and artist Dolf Riks,
owner of “Dolf Riks” restaurant, located on Pattaya-Naklua Road, North Pattaya
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How to economise and a famous soup sauce
Dolf - obviously well fed - posing with one of his
paintings for a Brisbane (Australia) Newspaper. M.V Van Neck 1959.
When I was quite a bit younger I used to be a ship’s mate employed by an
illustrious company by the name of “Koninklijke Paketvaart Maatschappy” or KPM
Lines. It was one of the last remnants of the Dutch Colonial Empire. During the
fifties, when Indonesia already had gained independence, it maintained the
inter-insular traffic in that sprawling archipelago as in the old colonial days.
This was a major irritant for the late President Sukarno, who wanted get to rid
of us once and for all and who was especially irked by the fact that the Dutch
stubbornly hung on to New Guinea or Irian. In retrospect I understand this,
after all, one wants to do one’s own thing even if you have to impoverish the
country in the process.
The honourable company which employed about 120 ships of sizes between 300 tons
and 9000 tons has unfortunately ceased to exist due to changing times. Merger
after merger swallowed up this piece of Dutch colonial history and I am now
dealing with a company called Nedlloyd for my tiny pension. The K.P.M. was a
most curious and amazing institution which we often referred to as a floating
grocery empire and it was to this company that I sold my soul even before I had
officially joined it, as it paid me a modest sum for many months to finish my
study for my third mate ticket. Once I had that, I was obligated to go to the
East and work for the company. The company’s flag still has a place of honour
among my objects d’art and may be viewed at the restaurant if so desired. I have
never regretted those years as they were adventurous and colourful. Sometimes it
bordered on sheer madness and at other times it was reminiscent of the writings
of Somerset Maugham and other authors concerned with the mysterious and exotic
East from the days of yore. It was hard work and hard living but it was worth
it.
The head office was in Jakarta on the Medan Merdeka, full with self satisfied
bureaucratic land-lubbers called “wal slurpen” in our jargon, which we, sailing
personnel, detested with a passion. The employees and directors would think of
the most outlandish schemes to make us more productive and sent us the most
peculiar circulars and notices. The catering department excelled in this pastime
and I will never forget one concerning a famous bottled soup sauce of Swiss
origin called Maggi, one of the main stays of Dutch cuisine. It is popular in
the kitchen as well as on the dinner table and has made great strides in
Thailand as an addition to expensive steaks and morning eggs.
It was customary among us officers in the dining room to cover our bread rolls -
traditionally served as soon as were seated - generously with butter as well as
a sprinkling of Maggi. Although the company was making millions and millions,
for as long as I was in their employ, they had periodic spasms of austerity,
during which all the departments would sent us a barrage of letters with
warnings to curb our deplorable spendthrift and advice us how to save money, as
times were extremely bad.
One day the catering department - they had their spies - knowing about our
lavish dining on bread rolls with butter as well as soup sauce, sent the captain
of our ship a circular, in which the head of the department told him that, as
from that day onwards, he had to see to it that this wasteful and deplorable
practice was to be discontinued immediately. We could either have butter on our
bread or Maggi but not both. This C.D. circular was only topped in absurdity by
one which said that we had to charge the passengers 10 Dutch cents (at the time
probably the equivalent of a present day Baht) for a glass of water. Of course
nobody took any notice of it.
My mother was under the impression that Maggi was a vegetarian sauce and she
told us that she used to make a vegetable soup with Klöse or dumplings,
flavoured with, among other things, Maggi sauce for her vegetarian lodger in
Holland before we were born. The woman marvelled at the aroma and the flavour of
the brew, which we did as well, as it was also one of our favourite soups. We
usually ate it as a main course and later when the leftovers were in the
refrigerator I would eat it cold when I was hungry, which was practically all
the time.
When I was living in Bangkok, being curious about the sauce, I wrote a letter to
the importer and distributor at the time, asking him if he could confirm my
mother’s believe that it was an vegetarian sauce made mainly from Lovage a herb
of the umbelliferae family, also called “the Maggi plant” but they preferred not
to answer my query. Later I heard from a Swiss friend that it is not a
vegetarian sauce but made from soup bones. He knew, as he lived practically next
door to a Maggi factory when he was young where large truck loads of bones were
driven into the gate continuously. So, that mystery has been solved and my
mother’s ”vegetarian lodger” was fooled into eating something which was not
absolutely kosher.
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