19th century royal carrier elephant, complete
with king, driver, and warrior guards.
by Ken Bailey
Situated a few Km out of town, the Elephant Village
houses beasts and mahouts, takes care of all their needs, funding it all
through shows and treks which educate as much as entertain.
Managing Director and founder, Khun Phairat Chaiyakham originally opened the
village as a home for elephants and mahouts made redundant by Thailand’s
timber industry winding down. After about five years the number taking
sanctuary there had increased so much that a steady source of income had to
be found. His solution still captivates audiences, giving them an
understanding of the elephant.
Two elephants and their
mahouts work together to move logs that are too heavy for one.
Getting out to the Elephant Village can be an adventure
in itself. Being an advocate of independent travel, I resisted making
arrangements at the Elephant Counter in the Hotel Tropicana. Instead, I took
a baht bus to the corner of Central and Sukhumvit Roads, crossed over to
Siam Country Club Road where a motorcycle taxi driver was eager to complete
my journey.
I thought things were going a bit too smoothly moments before we arrived at
the railway station. Producing a tourist mag I pointed to the Elephant
Village’s photographic ad. With a nod, a grin and a “khao jai”, we were off
in the right direction.
Starting at 2:30 p.m. the show is interesting and informative. The tourists’
favourite, hand feeding bananas to the elephants, preceded, intervalled and
closed the performance, captivating sections of the audience.
Master of ceremonies Khun
Sombat Preeda has what he calls “the best job in the world - being with
elephants”. He enthusiastically imparts his understanding of the creatures
to the audience.
Proceedings commence with the elephants being led on
parade by their drum and cymbal beating mahouts. Dressed traditionally in
royal blue tunic and bright red pants, the lead master is joined by a
similarly dressed dancing Thai maiden. As the elephants and musicians form a
half circle behind, they dance together to the clanging tune.
In unison with the historical and zoological narration, the elephants and
their mahouts demonstrate the strength and intelligence of the beasts
through the tasks they performed when logging. They pull huge logs,
singularly and in pairs. Males push them with their tusks. There is even a
tug of war between one beast and the audience. Short rides give a grasp of
the unique experience of being carried atop these huge, yet gentle animals.
The show concludes with a live scene depicting a 19th century royal elephant
carrier party. A colourful robe of reds, yellows and blues cover the
elephant’s sides, while its head wears a yellow triangular cloth. Atop sits
the king dressed in his royal blue robes and hat. Along side the beast two
sword wielding warrior guards complete the picture in their bright red
tunics with yellow stripes.
Master of ceremonies Khun Sombat Preeda’s depth of knowledge stems from 14
years of working with elephants. Seven of those years were spent working
with timber contractors, the other seven at the elephant village. A self
described conservationist, he says that he speaks to the audience through
his deep love and understanding of the elephants.
He tells the differences between Asian and African elephants, how fast they
run, how long, tall and heavy they become. Pregnancy and mating facts, their
impact on Thai history and culture. He tells everything.
Sadly, he also tells of his fear that if human attitude to the elephant does
not change soon there will be no elephants left in Thailand in 50 years. He
explains that due to human activity, elephant habitat, life spans, size and
reproduction rates are all decreasing.
Mahouts and elephants live
side by side at the Elephant Village as they have always done in the
Kingdom’s mountains and forests.
At the conclusion of the post show hand feeding, those
who had pre-booked a trek mounted their elephants and set off for what was
for most them their first elephant riding experience.
Khun Phairat took some time out to relate more about the Elephant Village,
explaining that the elephant mahouts who live and perform with their beasts
all come of their own free will. The village provides a place for them to
keep their elephants out of the modern world’s way, and make a living. They
are paid a wage, the elephants are fed and medically cared for, plus they
earn commission from each trek they take visitors on.
Khun Phairat points out that when you visit the Elephant Village you are
directly contributing to the elephants’ welfare.
When asked about the mahouts who walk their animals through Pattaya’s
streets at night, hawking, Khun Phairat reveals that he is currently
discussing this matter with city hall. He stresses that although some of
these mahouts have claimed to be from the village, none of them are. He
passionately dislikes this practice and urges residents and visitors to
Pattaya to not support it by buying bananas to feed the elephants.
Apparently city hall would like Khun Phairat to take in these elephants when
police detain their mahouts. He is in favour of this proposal, however the
issue of the 700 baht per animal per day needed for their upkeep is an
obstacle. Let’s hope that a solution which benefits the elephants is found,
and implemented.
Anyone wanting to learn all about these magnificent beasts, or those who
just want an afternoon of light entertainment, can contact the Elephant
Counter at the Hotel Tropicana on 428 158, 428 645-8, the Elephant House on
249 174-5, or their field office on 249 818. As Khun Sombat points out,
maybe your children may not be as lucky.
|
Any operators of attractions
who would like their activity featured in Travel & Leisure, in
and around Pattaya can contact Ken Bailey on 427 822, or 429
444. |
