Want to visit an island? There is a “new” one for both
residents and visitors. Not Koh Larn just off Pattaya Bay, or the well
publicized tourist spots Koh Samet or Koh Chang, the “new” venue is Koh Si
Chang. After all, it is much closer than the latter two islands, and for my
money has much more charm and natural attractions.
The Yellow
Buddha offers excellent photo opportunities.
Just off Sriracha, the island ferries leave from the clearly
signposted Koh Si Chang ferry terminal (the easy way is to turn left at Robinson
Department Store on Sukhumvit Road and left again on to Jermjompol Road and
about 500 metres later you will see the sign on your right). You can lock up
your car and leave it on the pier. We just followed the local custom and the car
was fine when we returned the next day.
The ferry trip costs 20 baht and takes 40 minutes, but be
prepared to fight for a seat! This is one time to ignore the old adage of women
and children first. On the ferry trip you thread your way past large freighters
loading tapioca but are soon deposited on the wharf at Koh Si Chang.
Tham Yai
Prik Temple and stairs.
You do not need to look for transport to your hotel - it is
waiting and looking for you! The local taxis are wonderful three wheeled devices
(“samlors”) and are a combination of motorcycle front wheels, handlebars and
fuel tanks, mated to a car engine, gearbox and rear axles. They are also very
quiet and feel perfectly safe. The drivers, a gregarious lot, will quickly
inquire as to whether you need picking up. There is, however, none of the
aggression of the local baht busses. We were staying at the Si Chang Palace
Hotel (the largest on Koh Si Chang), and 40 baht later we were at the door,
after wending our way through narrow wharf-side alleys.
Si Chang Palace is a typical Chinese style hotel. Clean, no
frills and reasonable tariff (around 800 baht for an A/C room). It does have a
swimming pool and a coffee shop. The former is recommended, the latter is not!
Checkout time is 11 a.m. by the way.
The
highlight of the weekend was a visit to the Tham Yai Prik Temple and meditation
complex.
The best way to get a quick appraisal of the island is to
take a samlor tour. The price quoted by all the drivers was 250 baht, but you
can bargain if you wish. I did initially, but after the extended tour and
happily waiting for us at the tourist spots and while we had lunch, I ended up
offering the full amount. It was worth it. Our driver was a cheery lady, Khun
Bua, number 86, and you can catch her on her mobile 09 536 9584. Not much
English, but you’ll get by.
Much of the island’s history relates to Thailand’s much
revered King Rama V. As a part of the “grand tour” you will be taken to Rama
V’s lookout (being extensively renovated by the Tourism Authority of
Thailand), to the stone tablet he wrote, to the original site of the Vimanmek
teakwood palace where he stayed (latterly relocated in Bangkok) and the
Chakkapong Cave (which he named) and the Yellow Buddha. Most of these are
excellent photo opportunities.
The stone
tablet King Rama V wrote.
During our tour we noticed a small and very clean restaurant
called “Pan and David” offering both Thai and farang food. The actual
address is 167, Moo 3, Tha Devawongse, telephone 01 295 1748. Cold beers and
good food. While you are there, inquire about the “Boat Bungalows” next to
the restaurant on the water’s edge. They looked quaint and funky, but we could
not find the owner to get an idea of pricing.
At one end of the township is the Khao Yai temple complex.
This has a 500 step climb to the top, for those of sound wind and legs, but we
were quite satisfied with the first 100 or so! Perhaps the cold beers at Pan and
David’s the night before were catching up?
Being a
volcanic island, Koh Si Chang developed with faults through the rock as the lava
cooled.
However, the highlight of the weekend was a visit to the Tham
Yai Prik Temple and meditation complex. Truly breathtaking traditional temple
architecture, all constructed by the 300 monks and 200 nuns on site. We
witnessed them breaking up the volcanic rock to be used as building material,
all with happy faces, serving their Buddha’s cause. We were given a tour of
the area by one of the monks, who spoke excellent English too. This temple is
very highly recommended - it just has a wonderful “feel” or aura about it.
For a weekend away, there are also beaches (Pang Cave Beach
seemed the best and most popular) and there are other caves to explore as well.
Being a volcanic island, it developed with faults through the rock as the lava
cooled, with one cave, the Tham Saowapha, reputedly running the entire length of
the island.
The
original site of the Vimanmek teakwood palace where King Rama V stayed
Perhaps one of the attractions of Koh Si Chang is the lack of
tourists, farang faces being very rare. This is a chance to explore a “real”
piece of Thailand, and it is just next door. Hopefully this article will not
bring a deluge of tourists to the small island, but if you go, I am sure you
will not be disappointed. Inexpensive, with a “Thai” quality all its own.
We’ll be back!
At one end
of the township is the Khao Yai temple complex, which offers beautiful vistas.
Water
carrier samlor.
Alvi
Sinthuvanik, the president of the Happy Family Project for YWCA, talks about
the importance of education.
(left)
Wichote Sawangsuk from Pattaya School Number 2 said, “Thank you so much
for the donation towards our education ... We feel as though you are our
mothers and fathers.”
