DINING OUT - ENTERTAINMENT

Shell Tangkay

For evocative dining

The Shell Tangkay name is really one of the most historical in Pattaya. The Shell Tangkay pier in South Pattaya had a restaurant on it more than 50 years ago, and the name ‘Tangkay’ even refers to a Chinese fishing junk. The reviewed Shell Tangkay Restaurant has been at its Naklua location for the past 20 years. As ‘institutions’ go, this would have to go close!

A brief explanation of the ‘Shell’ name. Like the Michelin star restaurants in Europe, there was a list of restaurants recommended by the Shell Company in Thailand. These restaurants used ‘Shell’ in front of the restaurant’s name.

Shell Tangkay Sea Food Naklua is approached from Soi 12, at the lower (Naklua) end of the Pattaya-Naklua Road. Drive up Soi 12 and take the right hand fork in the road and then first right (about 50 metres later) and follow it down to the water.

The restaurant is set on decking out over the water, beside the pier, with the kitchen and bar area set back. You can look right around to Laem Chabang port on your right, and then back around towards Naklua and Pattaya on your left. The seating is of the ubiquitous plastic chair genre, and the tables covered with colourful plastic sheeting. It is not the Ritz.

The menu is large, as these seafood restaurant menus generally are. Appetizers are mainly around B. 100 for such items as fried crabmeat balls or spring rolls. There is a page of salads between B. 70-190 with the meat varieties at the lower end and the seafood versions at the top.

Thai food items are next (B. 70-150) with omelette’s and stir-fries predominating. Soups are offered as small-medium-large with the majority B. 120-150-200 respectively. The rice dishes that follow have four sizes with most B. 40-80-120-150.

A couple of pages of ‘Yum’ salad dishes are next with the average price being B. 120 and includes fish, crab, cockles, squid and prawn. Another two pages are entitled ‘Oyster’ but this is in reality ‘Hoy’ and covers a large range of shellfish including cockles, mussels, clams as well oyster, with the majority around B. 100 per serving.

Prawns, lobster, rock lobster, fish and crab tend to be priced by weight, though there are some at fixed price.

Beers are B. 80-100 for large bottles and juices B. 50.

As a party of three, we tried several dishes. We began with a tempura prawn dish, which had the prawns in a very ‘crunchy’ batter. Whilst not a delicate covering, it was not at all soggy, and I did enjoy it.

This was followed by a crab in yellow curry. Despite the fact that Miss Terry normally eschews crab dishes as being too much work for too little return, this one was worth it!

We also had a stir-fried vegetable dish, a hor mok talay - that spicy melange of tastes, served in a fresh coconut. Again a very different and enjoyable taste sensation.

We finished with a steamed fish with lemon sauce, which was again an excellent example of these dishes, being served in the lemon sauce over a flame. The bone just lifting straight out and none left for the diners.

The end was signalled by the largest finger-bowl in the world! A huge ‘po-shaped’ receptacle, complete with a towel attached to one of the handles was brought to the table! Large enough to bath in, but we restricted ourselves to hands only.

We enjoyed the food at Shell Tangkay and the experience. It is always pleasant to eat seafood sitting out over the sea, with small boats moored alongside. The atmosphere is right! This was also not a tourist trap, with the vast majority of diners on the evening we went along, being local people. However, with the menu being bilingual, and most of the staff likewise, there are no communication problems. A shorter drive than to Bang Saray, and generally cheaper. Worth the trip.

Shell Tangkay Sea Food, 95 M5, Soi 12, Naklua, telephone 038 225 234, 038 225 989-90, fax 038 225 922. Open 10 a.m. through till midnight, seven days. Secure parking outside and on the pier.