The international temptress
by Miss Terry Diner
The original Mata Hari was an exotic temptress who could
bring down governments. Our Mata Hari in Pattaya cannot be accused of
bringing down governments (they do that fairly well themselves), but is
certainly well known as being a culinary temptress. Now at its new location
for most of this year, it was time for the Dining Out Team to see if Mata
Hari was still as tempting.
The venue on the ground floor of the new Nirvana Place is charming. It is in
two sections, with a Wine Bar taking up one third of the floor space, and
the restaurant proper, the other two thirds. The décor is classical, without
being over the top, marble floors, carver chairs, heavy linen tablecloths
and excellent quality napery. The staff are also outfitted with classical
long black aprons and white shirts/blouses, and are friendly, well trained
and efficient. And over-seeing it all, as he flits from table to table is
the omnipresent figure of Louis Noll, the Bailli (president) of the Pattaya
chapter of the Chaine des Rotisseurs, the oldest gourmet group in the world.
The
menu has retained the bulk of the favorites from the previous Mata Hari,
with international items dotted all the way through, such as Dutch green pea
soup (B. 160), Greek salad (B. 220), warm goat’s cheese salad with honey
vinaigrette (B. 290), seared Ahi tuna with lime and black pepper crust (B.
290), escargots and frog legs, and pan fried crab crusted red snapper fillet
(B. 390). There are also many Thai dishes (B. 150-220) for accompanying Thai
guests. Venison is available in cutlets with raspberry and port jus, plus
other imported meats from Australia and Argentina; however, the vast
majority of the dishes remain under B. 450.
The wine list is comprehensive, covering both old and new world wines, with
the bulk between B. 1,000-2,500 per bottle. Mata Hari also boasts some of
the best house wines (Australian and Chilean) which can be bought by the
glass (B. 150). We tried the house variety in the Wine Bar and continued
with it into the restaurant.
There are occasions when specials are available, and these depend upon
availability and quality. We were luck to try the tiger prawns on special
that day, grilled in herb butter, fresh and succulent, and a great way to
start the evening.
For mains, Madame went for the Mata Hari fillet steak (B. 450), which comes
with chicken liver pate, mushrooms and green asparagus. This arrived cooked
to order, and was very tender and was certainly given a high approval by
Madame’s taste buds.
For myself I was about to go for the red snapper fillet, but could not go
past the Dover Sole (special that evening), pan-fried in butter and lemon
juice and I chose the sautéed potatoes to go with it, which came in a neat
little ‘tower’ on the plate. Dover Sole is not common in Pattaya and this
was a particular treat.
We were talked into dessert and the home-made raspberry ice cream was
sensational, whilst I finished with a beautiful Dutch cheese accompanied by
a Taylor’s port.
Mata Hari remains one of the most outstanding restaurants in Pattaya. It
offers innovative cuisine, plus a delightful simplicity in presentation and
cooking, making for dishes that have not been swamped with overpowering
sauces. It is a restaurant that has broadened its appeal with the wine bar,
in addition to the restaurant proper, making it an ideal location in which
to socialize, do business or just wind down, as well as eat. The ‘value for
money’ pricing concept is still there, and with that indefinable “Louis”
factor, it is difficult to surpass this restaurant. This is the 10th year
for Louis Noll and Mata Hari, and the Dining Out Team can see why this venue
has kept its appeal for discerning diners. Highest recommendation possible.
You will not be disappointed, but I do suggest you book.
Mata Hari Restaurant, 482/57 Thappraya Road (ground floor Nirvana Place),
telephone 038 259 799, fax 038 259 798, email [email protected],
www.mataharirestaurant.com. Open six days (closed Mondays), Wine Bar from 5
p.m. and restaurant from 6 p.m., secure parking on site.
