It has been some time since we reviewed The Stone Oven,
hidden away as it was in Soi 6 Pattaya. This restaurant was the brainchild
of Peter Miller, a man with enormous culinary talents, but suffered from an
unfortunate location, it being very hard to find parking (or avoid some
suggestions from the local inhabitants of the soi).
Since then, Peter has branched out into gourmet catering, and two months ago
relocated the restaurant to Jomtien, in the soi leading to the Welcome
Jomtien hotel. This is also a fairly noisy soi, but The Stone Oven manages
to rise above all that, though it is only in a single shophouse, about half
way up the soi on the left hand side.
The restaurant premises are somewhat cramped, because of the limited space
available, but the wicker/rattan chairs are comfy, the red check tablecloths
bright and cheerful, and the cutlery is of very high standard. At the rear
of the restaurant is a bar area, though most people will prefer to stay at
their tables.
As before, Peter himself is present to oversee the preparation of the food.
His concept is to use the best and freshest ingredients, and not to be
stinting of them in the individual items. This was very evident when the
first dishes came out, where the salad had plenty of thickly sliced Paris
ham, and was not made up of 90 percent rocket lettuce!
Peter, originally coming from a non-English speaking nation has remembered
this in his menu, and has put together one that is totally photographic. I
applaud this concept and wish that more restaurants would adopt it,
especially if they wish to attract international tourist custom.
The menu is not large, but has enough choices, be that for Italian, European
or Thai, plus some interesting Thai variations. Of course, Peter initially
made his name with his Stone Oven pizzas which come in 12 inch sizes and
eight slices. These range in price between B. 195 to B. 295 and are not the
usual, with loads of toppings. The “meat lover” for example having five
different meats in the pizza. Pizzas are also available as individual
slices. While still on pasta, mention should be made of the giant pitas (B.
145-195).
Salads (B. 95-145) cover European and Thai varieties, with Caesar, Nicoise
and Greek represented and a very interesting Thai Yam Nua.
Soups (B. 95-145) also have Thai and Euro items, as do the two pages of
“international” items (B. 75-195).
The wine list is small - a choice of Italian white or red, but at B. 60 a
glass is still quaffable, though I do recommend that you let the red breathe
a little. Beers are also available at B. 50-70 for local styles.
By the way, if you find reading the menu in subdued light a problem, Peter
has kindly attached a small torch to it!
We tried many dishes, including the salads, which were definitely loaded
with ingredients and not just mountains of leafy vegetables. As an
international style of dish we also had the beef in oyster sauce. This was
superb, with the beef having been marinated before being consigned to the
wok.
The lobster bisque was again a very hearty dish and was well liked by Madame
and our guests for the evening.
One very interesting dish was the fried rice cooked with Japanese soi,
giving it a totally different flavor from the usual tired old fried rice one
is served up every day.
The pizzas were wonderful, especially the loaded ‘meat lover’ with a thin
and crispy base and plenty of tender meats. We left more than satiated!
As in our previous review of this restaurant, it continues to amaze. The
food is of an excellent standard, and certainly not over the top in pricing.
The venue is a little cramped, but perhaps adds to the overall atmosphere.
Definitely worth a visit, and the beef in oyster sauce should be one of your
choices. And at less than B. 100 certainly will not break the bank!
The Stone Oven, Soi Welcome 1, 334/15, telephone 038 236 083. Open seven
days 10 a.m. until 12 p.m. On-street parking, or in the Welcome Hotel large
parking area.
Fish fillets with garlic potatoes
You can use most kinds of fish fillets for this week’s
recipe, just ensure that you very carefully fillet the fish, or that your
supplier has done so. The flavor is quite delicate and you should be able to
enjoy the garlic, both in the sauce for the fish and through the potatoes as
well.
Cooking Method:
In a skillet, deglaze with extra virgin olive oil, and sear fish on
both sides until golden brown. Remove fish from skillet and place on a
draining stand then cook in 350 degree oven for 5-7 minutes.
In the sauté pan, add 2 tablespoons of butter plus capers, tomatoes, 1
teaspoon garlic and onions. Deglaze with white wine, add 3 teaspoons of
chopped parsley. Reduce liquid by one third, add vinegar.
Prepare mashed potatoes by boiling, then add 2 teaspoons of minced garlic
during the final mashing.
Serve the fish on the top of the potatoes and drizzle the sauce over the
fish.
Garnish plate with 2 teaspoons of chopped parsley.
Ingredients Serves
4-6
Fish fillets
600 gm
Potatoes (steamer size)
500 gm
Garlic minced
¼ cup
Capers
4 tbspns
Onions diced
½ cup
Dry white wine
½ cup
Butter
250 gm
Tomatoes diced, peeled
½ cup
Fresh parsley chopped
1 bunch
White balsamic vinegar
30 ml
Salt and pepper to taste