When we looked at our calendar, it had been more than 12 months since our previous review of Louis Noll’s Mata Hari, but that did not mean that we had not eaten there in the interim. Mata Hari has been one of our favored restaurants for many years.
With Louis indicating that there was a new menu, it did not take much tempting for us to try Mata Hari, the culinary temptress of Pattaya.
For those who are not aware of Mata Hari (though that is difficult to imagine) the venue is on the ground floor of Nirvana Place at the top of Thappraya Road. It is in two sections, with a Wine Bar taking up one third, and the restaurant proper, the other two thirds. The décor is classical, without being over the top: marble floors, carver chairs, heavy linen tablecloths and excellent quality napery. The staff are in classical long black aprons and white shirts/blouses and maroon waistcoats, and are friendly, well trained and efficient. Overseeing it all, as he flits from table to table is Louis Noll, the former Bailli (president) of the Pattaya chapter of the Chaine des Rotisseurs, the oldest gourmet group in the world.
There are 11 new menu items, such as Turkish lamb kebab with parsley, tomato, mint salad and yoghurt sauce (B. 420), or pan-fried crab crusted red snapper fillet (B. 390) or grilled parrot fish with fresh herbs, lime and baby tomatoes (B. 350).
Along with the new menu, there is also a new wine selection, with some very reasonably priced wines. If you are looking for bubbles, Hardies Brut from Australia at B. 950 is good drinking. Louis Noll has always prided himself on being able to balance performance and price. One of these is a French chardonnay called Hob Nob. This is a wine grown and produced in the ‘Old World’, using ‘New World’ methods. Quite a turn-up for the books! However, ignore the black cork - it’s plastic, not contaminated! Good quaffing, which we enjoyed through to the main course where we reverted to the house red, also eminently drinkable.
We began with one of Louis’ recommendations, a Jamon Iberico (Pata Negra) which is a Spanish ham from black pigs fed on acorns. This ham has regular flecks of intramuscular fat, and because of the pig’s diet of acorns, much of the jamón’s fat is oleic acid, a monounsaturated fatty acid that has been shown to lower LDL cholesterol. Louis was looking after my health as well as my taste buds! The ham came with a side dish of pickled baby turnips, onions and gherkins, a wonderful start to the meal.
Madame, who is more than partial to Alaskan king crab legs chose that as her starter, with the choice of cold or warm. Warm won the toss and there is no getting away from the fact that after Alaskan king crab, all others pale into insignificance.
For mains, Madame selected the rock lobster tails in vermouth cream sauce with snow peas, whilst I chose the lamb fillet steak with grainy Dijon mustard sauce, with my choice of potatoes being mashed.
The rock lobster was not tough and rubbery and the vermouth cream sauce delicious. Madame was very happy with her choice. My lamb steak was tender and cooked exactly to my order and the sauce was excellent. This had been a superb meal for both of us.
Now when you talk with Louis, he will deny Mata Hari being a fine dining restaurant. I agree with him on only one count, the prices are not fine dining, but everything else is! The venue is fine dining, the service personnel are fine dining, the food presentation is fine dining, but contrary to many fine dining restaurants, the portions are far more than just adequate. Mata Hari does not present small portions artfully placed on the plate and called ‘nouvelle cuisine’.
One of the best restaurants in Pattaya. Highest recommendation possible.
Mata Hari restaurant, 482/57 Thappraya Road (ground floor Nirvana Place), telephone 038 259 799, fax 038 259 798, email info@ mataharirestaurant.com, www.mataharirestaurant.com. Open six days (closed Mondays), Wine Bar from 5 p.m. and restaurant from 6 p.m., secure parking on site. Book!

---

Tom Yum Goong

This is a simple recipe to make in the traditional manner, and incidentally, is probably one of the best known Thai dishes in the world. The Thai recipe calls for the heads to be left on the prawns, but if cooking for predominantly non-Thai friends, remove the heads (and the shell) before cooking. This recipe also shows you when to intervene in checking the seasoning. The final taste should be spicy-sour and a little salty.

Cooking Method:   In a saucepan boil the chicken stock, then add the lemongrass, lime leaves and mushrooms. Add the prawns and cook for around 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the chillies, coriander, lime juice and fish sauce and allow to stand for five minutes. Now check the seasoning, adding more lime juice or fish sauce, or breaking up the green chillies if more spiciness is required. If required, place over the heat for one minute before serving with steamed rice to eat this in Thai style.

Ingredients           Serves 4
Prawns, shelled         12 medium
Chicken stock           600 ml
Mushrooms, halved    150 gm
Kaffir lime leaves        3
Lemongrass chopped 3 stalks
Chillies, small green   4
Coriander leaf            1/4 cup
Lime juice               3 tbspns
Fish sauce             1/2 tbspn