Pattaya is really a hive of activity, and that is particularly so in the
restaurant business. The last time we reviewed the Pagoda restaurant, which was
about two years ago, owner Helmut Zimmermann was in charge. We popped in last
week to see how he was going, to find Helmut still there working as mine host,
but he had sold Pagoda in November 2009 and it was now owned by Jens Klein and
his partner Jo. Was it still of the high standard we had experienced last time?
We made an appointment to come back and see.
For
those who have not experienced Pagoda (which is somewhat off the beaten track,
being deep inside the Jomtien Complex), it is on the second soi of the complex
(to make it easier to locate, the Poseidon restaurant is on the first soi). The
complex has an amazing collection of restaurants, bars, shops and massage
parlors, and Pagoda does stand out as a culinary oasis in that second soi.
The restaurant has two main sections, with an outside al
fresco terrace area for the smokers and a beautifully appointed air-conditioned
section inside. The d้cor is classical Asian with “objets d’art” displayed
throughout the restaurant. Very original use is made of Bor Sang umbrellas,
suspended from the ceiling, which move gently with the air-conditioning outflow.
Tables are large and the cushioned chairs are comfortable, inviting the diner to
have a relaxed evening. Again the ‘class’ in a restaurant such as this is shown
by the hand-beaten cutlery and quality napery.
The menu, in its gold cover, informs the diner about the
weekly and monthly specials and then into the starters, both hot and cold (B.
140-280) including Bordelaise mushrooms and smoked salmon and graved lax with
sauces. On to soups (B. 120), poultry, beef and even Chateau Briand for two (B.
790), seafood (B. 240-390), pork (cordon bleu B. 250), pasta, lamb and Thai
food.
Jens
said that there will be an addition to the menu in the form of an East German
potato dumpling/beef roll, known as a “Thuringer Klosse”, which will be made on
the premises by the Pagoda chefs.
We sampled the wine on special which was a Spanish Navarra
Campo Nuevo red, which made for very pleasant quaffing, and at under B 1,000
exceptional value.
The wine list is not excessive, but there are enough choices
to suit most people. The wines are arranged by country of origin, which I
prefer, rather than by varietals. Practically all are under B. 2,000 and many
under B. 1,000.
We began with mussels with spinach for Madame and a French
onion soup for me (B. 130). The mussels were delightful, plump and warm and this
dish was a great start to the evening.
For mains, Madame had selected the NZ lamb fillet (B. 590),
while I chose the chicken breast with rosemary in a mustard sauce and mashed
potatoes (B. 240). Both servings were good-sized portions, served on warm plates
and of a very high standard and very enjoyable. Top marks for the Pagoda chefs.
It is worth the effort to find Pagoda. It is a beautifully
appointed restaurant, with quality food and good service. Jens and Jo have
maintained the ambience set originally by Helmut Zimmermann, and the prices are
exceptionally reasonable; in fact, I believe they are set too low for a
restaurant of this caliber. Visit before they find out and raise the prices!
For our dish of the evening, it was a toss-up between
Madame’s mussels or my chicken breast in the mustard sauce. Both portions were
more than just adequate in size, but eventually we agreed on the mussels which
were beautifully warm and flavorsome.
By the way, with Jens having celebrated his 30th
birthday in August, he is giving every customer a complimentary cocktail this
month to allow the diners to enjoy his birthday as well.
Pagoda Restaurant, 413/51-53 Jomtien Complex Soi 2, Jomtien,
telephone 084 5511 880, www.pagoda-pattaya.com, open seven days 6 p.m. until
late (but last orders from the kitchen 10.30 p.m.). All major credit cards
accepted. Parking within the complex or on Thappraya Road (in front of the bank
there is usually plenty of parking).
