Shiraz is a “love it or hate it” kind of wine. A typical Shiraz is powerful
stuff, with a spicy, peppery aroma. It’s been described by wine-writer Karen
MacNeil as, “rustic, manly and yet elegant.”
“Manly” might seem an odd (and perhaps politically dodgy)
adjective for a wine, but I know what she means. These are not wines for wimps
and those of a delicate disposition. However, I must confess to liking wines
with a bit of authority, being a rather macho, masculine type myself, you
understand. You can ask my friends if you want. If they howl with laughter,
you’ve obviously asked the wrong friends.
The Shiraz (SHEE-raz) grape gained its reputation in the
Northern Rhone region of France, where it’s known by its original name, the
Syrah (see-RAH). It’s been growing there since Roman times. Although the grapes
are similar, New World Shiraz tends to make fruitier, more powerful aromatic
wines than its French cousins.
The grape probably originated in the Middle East, although no
one is really certain. It can produce dark, almost dramatic, earthy wines that
tend to have a fair dose of tannin and an unmistakable mouth-feel.
Monsoon Valley Shiraz 2010 (red),
Thailand (Villa and others, Bt. 650)
Siam Winery’s expert wine-maker, Kathrin Puff has crafted
this splendid wine from Shiraz grapes grown in the company’s Hua Hin Hills
vineyards. It has already won several awards and was highly commended in the
UK’s Decanter Magazine. The wine is a lovely crimson colour, which comes from
the dark-skinned grapes and there’s an aroma of black fruit, cherries, grassy
herbs (oregano, I’d guess) and crushed fresh black pepper. The superb taste hits
the palette with a fair old smack, but this is a Shiraz of course, and the
assertiveness should come as no surprise to the initiated. It is dry and
full-bodied, with a rich taste of plums and cherries. There’s a hefty load of
tannin and the characteristic flavour of black pepper is there too.
Surprisingly, there’s a soft and pleasingly gentle herby finish.
It would make a good partner for equally assertive foods. As
circumstances would have it, I found myself drinking what was left of the wine
later in the evening, with a turbo-charged pizza enlivened with capers, spicy
salami and bits of those hot little red prik dairng Thai peppers. To my
surprise, the food and wine matched perfectly. Alternatively, you could try the
wine with rich beef stews, strong cheese or game.
If you prefer a gentler style of Shiraz, try the Mont Clair
Bin 9 Shiraz (also from Siam Winery) which is not only softer but significantly
cheaper.
Castle Creek Shiraz 2010 (red),
Australia (Villa Bt. 349)
Shiraz is Australia’s leading red grape variety. It is to
Australia what Cabernet Sauvignon is to Bordeaux. I’m told that many Australians
couldn’t live without it.
This wine is a characteristic dark red and there’s a gentle
and rich aroma of black cherries with hints of herbs, spices and mulberry.
Predictably, there’s a big taste, quite full bodied and completely dry. I picked
up a very faint reminder of mint and citrus too and the wine has a long and soft
peppery finish. Like most Shiraz, this is a fairly assertive wine with a firm
body and a good grip of tannin. Open the bottle half an hour in advance, because
this helps the taste to soften and lets a charming hint of seductive sweetness
comes through.
The makers suggest that you could drink this wine on its own.
Perhaps you could, but Shiraz always strikes me as a “food wine”. Hearty roasts
or peppered steak spring to mind. One of Australia’s top wine-makers suggests
that Aussie Shiraz goes perfectly with char-grilled kangaroo steaks. I shall
have to take his word for that.
