A very interesting restaurant reviewed this week, and one that has an interesting history and a move of about 100 meters! Magg’s Restaurant was named after a Thai lad, and was in a single shophouse in Thepprasit Road about 250 meters from Thappraya Road. Blink twice and you missed it.
Around nine years ago, the restaurant was taken over by a British couple Val (the chef) and John (barman); however, after six years the so frequently heard situation of rents being jacked up occurred and Val and John began hunting for more suitable premises. Fate smiled upon them and a much larger double shophouse became available 100 meters up Thepprasit Road which had been used as a showroom for Italian plaster ceilings, which were still there, plus decorative columns, all reminiscent of the Sistine Chapel. John and Val then added some very large statues, and now you cannot miss Magg’s at all.
It is a superbly appointed restaurant with wonderfully comfortable swivel chairs, large tables, excellent napery and quality glassware. In the middle is a long sit-up bar with John at the helm, whilst at the rear is Val’s kitchen. We were impressed by the restaurant, before we even had anything to eat! Before you ask, the fire is not real!
The wine list is not extensive, but nor is it expensive. We had a bottle of Penfold’s Bin 8 Cabernet/Shiraz (B. 1550), but there are some very inexpensive house wines by the glass or carafe.
The menu begins with the daily specials, three courses with many choices at B. 495 all up. Items in the specials include whole baked trout and ham and cheese Chicken Kiev, for example.
The menu proper begins with cold starters (B. 160-265) with the smoked salmon (B. 195) served with wasabi, capers and horseradish sauce particularly interesting.
Eleven hot starters (B. 120-260) include crispy duck (B. 210) and a Chicken Tikka (B. 185). Plenty of choices once again.
Six soups (B. 100-155) include lobster bisque and a mushroom and porcini cream soup.
Five salads are all B. 295 with the mango, prawn and blue cheese very tempting.
Mains are up next (B. 275-695) with a Beef Wellington with port wine sauce at the top end and an English sausage and mash with fried onion sauce at the lower end. All the mains come with fresh vegetables and a choice of potatoes.
Grills have their own section (B. 370-650) with imported Australian Wagyu eye of rump at the premium end and a pepper steak with salad and french-fries (B. 370).
Fish fans will not be disappointed with eight items (B. 240 for the traditional beer battered fish and chips up to B.460 for the pan-fried scallops served with fresh avocado and tequila sauce, which sounds very interesting). On our next trip to Magg’s Restaurant, that will definitely be one of my choices.
Finally there are some pasta dishes and desserts, with all the dessert items home-made by chef Val herself.
From that rather large menu, I chose the Wednesday special and began with the prawn spring rolls and two dipping sauces. A pleasant starter. Madame went for the Portobello mushrooms baked with blue and cheddar cheese and finished with a Parmesan sprinkle (B. 210). This was sensational, and came with salad on the side, and the portion had two very large mushrooms.
In the selection of main dishes in the daily specials was a gammon steak with broccoli and cheese sauce, french-fries and vegetables. This was again a very generous portion and very enjoyable. Madame was delighted with her choice of an Australian lamb chop (B. 425) with sauté potatoes and vegetables and mint sauce.
Both of us were too full to contemplate desserts, no matter how appealing they looked.
This restaurant has much going for it. A very full menu, and very reasonable pricing for some well-cooked European fare. This is definitely one restaurant which you should try, but ring for a reservation, as the restaurant only seats around 30 people.
Magg’s Restaurant, 315/60 Moo 12, Thepprasit Road, telephone 038 251 164, 081 153 4733, open six days (closed Mondays) from 5.30 p.m., but open for traditional roast lunch Sundays 1 p.m. until 5.30 p.m. Plenty of on-street parking.
