We suddenly realized that it had been two years since we last visited Ticino, (pronounced “Tichino” by the way), run by Swiss host Peter Faessler. Ticino gets its name from the Italian speaking Ticino Canton of Switzerland and we noted last time that this was a faithful European restaurant. The Italian Vespa scooters at the door just emphasize the continental style.
It is a garden restaurant, built on the site of an old mango plantation. In the grounds are the individual tables and chairs, set in your own bushy ‘alcoves’ or gazebo’s with thatched palm frond roofs. The restaurant section can seat 68, with another 12 at the circular Vespa bar.
The predominant colors are blue and red, and this goes for the tablecloths and napkins, and for the staff aprons. I asked Peter Faessler if there was any significance, and was told that the blue and red were the colors of the Ticino Canton. (So now we have all learned something!)
Previously we had some difficulty finding this restaurant (being on the ‘dark side’), even though Peter publishes the GPS coordinates on his website, so this time we were determined to find an easy route. Come down Soi Nernplabwan from the Sukhumvit Road end and travel almost to the bottom. Turn right at the large Tara Pattana sign (there is a 7-Eleven on the left) and go straight across the bridge with the market on the right. After the bridge take the first left and just follow that road around for about one kilometer and then follow the fork to the right. You will see an illuminated “Ticino” sign and the restaurant is around 100 meters further on the left with parking outside.
We began with an aperitif at the Vespa Bar on the right, and met up with a few old friends. A good way to start a convivial evening.
Perusal of the full menu shows the European influence. Starters are in the B. 130-240 range and soups B. 110-150 (French Onion soup B. 110). Cold mains are B. 320-390 and Salads (hydroponic) are B. 130-240. Beef dishes B. 430-890 with imported beef are at the top end. Large Raclette portions are B. 460-890 and pork specialties B. 290-320. Continuing on, fish dishes are B. 280-340, and the very European dish of rabbit is available (B. 390). Poultry is B. 300-380. Pizzas are thin and crispy (B. 210-300). And there’s much more, but you have the idea by now.
We chose the Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso (B. 1760) wine, and this was decanted at the table and allowed some time for breathing. If you like a heavy wine, this is for you.
We began with a starter portion of Raclette (B. 250), a very mild cheese taken with gherkins and pickled onions and baby potato. You have a pepper grinder on the table if you need it (Madame did not, I did).
For our mains, Madame chose slowly simmered Lamb Shank with mashed potatoes (B. 560) and for me, the sliced veal tenderloin Zurich style with mushrooms and Roesti potato (B. 450). Good sized portions and very well presented, and great eating.
It was a most enjoyable evening at Ticino. The foliage gazebos are something unique and fun, and the food is of an exceptionally high standard. The pricing is in the medium range and the staff have been very well trained. Peter Faessler’s son Dennis is in charge of the kitchen and both the food and the presentation were excellent.
It is definitely worth the trip into the ‘Dark Side’, and the restaurant is about 15 minutes only from Sukhumvit Road. Highly recommended.
Ticino Restaurant and Vespa Bar (directions again: take Soi Nernplabwan, turn right at the large sign for Tara Pattana and then go straight on for around 300 meters and take the left fork. Follow that road for one km and take the right fork and Ticino is 100 meters further on the left).
If totally lost on the ‘Dark Side’ then call 084 676 7376; or use the GPS co-ordinates GPS N 12.9180 E 00.9334. Open 5 p.m. until 10 p.m. six days (closed Tuesdays) website www.ticino.co.th. Off-street parking.
