Thirty years ago, it was called Pattaya’s “business street”. Apart from the resort’s main post office, less streamlined in those days, there were several related businesses selling stamps, doing photocopies and offering secure metal boxes. Soi Post Office also housed Pattaya’s first computer shop where you could actually sign up for the internet.
There is still a survivor from those Halcyon Days. “Ma” still runs a packaging business right opposite the post office. That is now her main income as the sideline of selling newspapers has bitten the dust. “I used to sell dozens of international papers and magazines, including four weekly Pattaya newspapers, but the only ones left now are Pattaya Mail and a German periodical,” she says with a sad smile.
Near the top of the street is, or was, The Wild Chicken. In its heyday, this was a very popular American hangout with authentic dishes such as the Denver sandwich, an incredibly tasty omelet stuffed with ham, onions and peppers and wedged between huge toast slices. These days, the publicity sign has gone and food is not served. But, if Facebook is to be believed, it still houses an active supporters’ group and a cold beer.
At the beach road end, there has always been since time immemorial a huge selection of motorbikes for rent. Prior to the pandemic, there would be several staff on duty virtually 24/7, but the international tourist drought means that business has slumped. The staff have been replaced by a small notice with a telephone number to ring if you want to rent a machine. Nearby a tailor’s shop is now only open daily from 7-10 pm, another sign of the times.
But there are other survivors and even a new business or two. Last month, two expat Brits opened the Veterans bar specifically aimed at serving or ex military with the byline “All badges welcome”. It seems to be doing well. On the opposite side of the street is The Riviera Beach hotel and restaurant which is French-run and has a good international menu. But two fast food joints, including a large McDonalds, are gone.
But some businesses need to update their profile. A travel agency highlights itself with a huge sign offering “Cambodia visa runs” even though the land borders with Thailand have been closed to tourists and expats for over a year. Other survivors in the street include the popular Narong language school and translation agency and the long-established KT lawyer’s company.
Soi Post Office was never as dependent as many similar-looking streets on bars, gogo clubs and massage parlours. Only about the half the units were ever in those categories. In 2021 it’s a familiar story. The largest club Miami is shuttered, although several of the smaller bars with hostesses remain open. The Londoner bar, once a British mecca with regular quizzes, darts matches and snooker tournaments, is only a memory. The busiest bar during our visit was Charly’s Beach which, as an added incentive, promises Camels for 60 baht. Presumably they are referring to cigarettes.
The street is a part of old Pattaya which has withstood the test of time better than most. Terry Lane, a former bar owner who managed to sell up just before the pandemic struck, said, “The secret of Soi Post Office is that it has always mixed business with pleasure. Even the post office is open till eight in the evening. You don’t get that mixture in Walking Street, Boyztown and the like which are really night ghettos.” It’s a point of view you don’t often hear.
