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“Taking to the hills” - a
cultural trip to Northern Thailand
by Caroline Cawley
After reading the Pattaya Mail article ‘Cool Hill Tribes and Hot
Golf Spots’ on the 5th of February, my partner and I decided that we would take to
the hills and visit the North of Thailand. Having lived in Pattaya for the last five
months and travelled no further than Ko Chang and Bangkok we decided to broaden our
horizons. The article featured a travel company called DTC Travel and although paying a
little more than most other trekking companies we were guaranteed quality quides, small
groups (certainly no more than four) and to visit areas far less populated by other
tourists. And boy, did we get what we paid for. I would have to say it was one of the best
cultural trips we have ever been exposed to.
 Maekok River Lodge, Tha Ton, North Thailand.
More than 700 km north-west of Bangkok, Chiang Mai has over 300 temples
- almost as many as Bangkok, making it visually striking. We flew from Bangkok to Chiang
Mai in about 50 minutes with Thai Airways, and from there were transported to the
centrally located Chiang Mai Plaza Hotel. Our trip northwards commenced the following
morning at 8.30 a.m., when we were collected by our guide for an eventful trip to the
Maekok River Lodge in Tha Ton - about 191 km north of Chiang Mai.
The first true Thai kingdoms (Lanna, Sukhothai, Nan, Chiang Mai and
Chiang Saen) arose in what is now Northern Thailand, hence this region is endowed with a
wide range of traditional culture and architecture, including the country’s most
majestic temple ruins. It is also the home of most of the Thai hill tribes, whose cultures
are dissolving rapidly in the face of Thai modernisation and foreign tourism. Despite
this, the scenic beauty of the North has been fairly well preserved, and Chiang Mai is
still probably Thailand’s most livable city.
The Northern Thai people (who call themselves khon meuang) are known
for their relaxed, easy-going manner, which shows up in speech. The Northern dialect (kham
meuang) has a rhythm which is slower than that of Thailand’s other three main
dialects, and caused a little confusion when I tried to express myself in my limited Thai.
 “Ladies in waiting” - Lisu hill tribe
girls celebrate Chiness New Year.
Our journey started with a visit to an Orchid Farm where we given a
guided tour. Different varieties of orchids were being blended, and in most cases it takes
up to five years for the Orchids to flower.
Our next stop was to the food markets of the old town of Chiang Mai,
where we were given descriptions and samples of the foods on offer: bite-sized savory
appetisers, marinated and lightly grilled, neatly laid out for hungry passers-by; locus,
eel, selections of seafood, poultry, and other meats, amazing varieties of vegetables and
fruit from the regions mountain slopes which are well suited to their cultivation.
From there we travelled by air conditioned mini bus to Mae Taman to
visit a Hmong Tribal Village. Hmong originate from China and the total population in
Thailand is about 80,000, excluding Hmong from Laos interned in refugee camps. The Hmong
are divided into clans, each identified by a name passed from father to son and each
having its own customs. Clansmen are obligated to help one another. Men must marry outside
their clans and women join their husbands’ clans. Households may be large as married
men continue to reside in their father’s homes and under their authority. When a
child is born the placenta is buried in the floor of the home. The newborn still belongs
to the spirits who sent it; only after three days is a child admitted to the world of men,
named and placed under the protection of the house spirits. The villagers were very
hospitable and after making an offering of blankets at the head Shaman’s house we
were offered to share some nam (water).
Our next stop was Doi Chiang Dao, a cave complex which is said to
extend some 10-14km. Local legend says this cave complex served as the home of a reu-sii
(hermit) for a thousand years. Now it’s home to a stream flowing from the pedestal of
a solid-gold Buddha, a mystical lake, and a sacred immortal elephant, to name but a few.
At around 5 p.m. we arrived at the Maekok River Lodge, which sits on
the edge of the fabled Golden Triangle along the Thai-Burmese boarder. The Lodge is owned
by a Mr. Shane Beary, a hardworking, hard loving Irishman whose sanctuary for humans and
animals is a recycled teak palace made entirely from natural materials. It was built
around local fauna to lessen the environmental impact and to try to reflect the
traditional Thai style of architecture. Palm Trees protrude through the roof. In the front
yard of the Lodge is a roaring river, an isolated Buddhist Monastery and numerous Buddha
images carved into the hillsides. His neighbours include some of Thailand’s most
remote hill people, including, Akka Yao, Lisu, Lahu, Hmong, etc.
The Sala-Siam Restaurant boasts excellent Thai Cuisine and a high
standard of service. Mr. Beary also offers a six day intensive Thai Cookery Course, which,
after tasting his delicious cuisine, I hope to commence sometime in May. After a very
tasty meal we joined Mr. Beary and a couple of other guests from Singapore and the UK and
‘drowned the Shamrock" - in other words we had plenty of beer.
The following morning we were supposed to go trekking and spend a night
in a Kuomingtong Village called Suk Re Tai, but unfortunately, due to severe hangovers, we
decided to do something a little less strenuous.
About 20 km before Fang is the turn-off for Doi Ang Khang,
Thailand’s ‘Little Switzerland’. This 1,300 m peak has a cool climate
year-round and supports the cultivation of flowers, as well as fruits and vegetables that
are usually found only in more temperate climates. A few hill-tribe villages (Lahu, Lisu
and Hmong) can be visited on these slopes. We visited a Lahu Village and a Paulaung
Village (part of the Karen Tribe). The Lahu Village was quite well off, all the women were
busily making bamboo doors for sale in the local market. As these villages don’t have
many foreign visitors the children were quite intrigued and posed proudly for photographs.
Some of the other villagers posed for photographers but weren’t as enthusiastic. In
the Paulaung village they would not allow any photographs to be taken as they believed it
would capture their spirit - and who are we to disagree.
 “Let’s see... What’s for
lunch?” Lahu children in Northern Thailand.
The following day we headed north to visit a Lisu Tribe celebrating
Chinese New Year. In normal circumstances tourists would not have been taken to this
village because the tribe are at war with a Burmese Tribe, over drugs. All the Lisu ladies
were fully dressed in their multicoloured skirts, black velvet jackets studded with silver
buttons with breastplates fashioned with small silver globes. They then commenced to dance
in celebration of the New Year, which is the greatest festival of the Lisu calendar. The
dancing ground belonged to the village Shaman and the community danced around the
Shaman’s tree, which is the village guardian spirit. Later that evening they would
dance in front of the Headman’s house and the celebrations would continue for the
next two days and nights. As we were the only outside visitors on this day we were treated
with the greatest of hospitality. Food, beer and a homemade local corn whiskey were
showered upon us.
The rest of our days at the Maekok River Lodge were spent visiting the
Burmese Boarder, taking boat trips on the Maekok River and touring the town of Tao Ton and
Fang.
Other trips offered by Mr. Beary include, Local Walking Tours, Northern
Bank-Mountain Bike Trips, Varied Trekking Trips including overnight excursions, Bamboo
Rafting, Overnight River Barge Trips to Chiang Rai, Hill Tribe Tours, Elephant
Safari’s and Jungle Tours... Need I say more?
As you can imagine we are already looking forward to our next trip this March. For more
information, the Lodge has a web-site at www.track-of-the-tiger.com.
“Toast to the host”
by His Excellency Bhichai Rattakul, the Deputy Prime
Minister
At the installation dinner of
Lodge Pattaya West Winds,
30th January 1999
The Right Worshipful Master of the Lodge Pattaya West
Winds, ladies and gentlemen. It was "dark" a few days ago, but now I see some
"light"... and no longer it is "dark" anymore. Indeed, I am referring
to the Freemasonry movement.
As guest of the Lodge Pattaya West Winds at this prestigious
Installation Dinner, I wish to express, on behalf of all the guest here tonight, that we
are most thankful to the honorable members of the Lodge and, especially the newly
elected... the Right Worshipful Master Xanxai Visitkul, for inviting us to witness this
grand, yet solemn ceremony. We deeply appreciate your warm words of welcome.
Looking back to some of the past events concerning the Freemasonry
movement in Thailand, I had a few days ago received a long fax message from Kuala Lumpur,
the contents of which are hardly readable, but it contains many interesting facts about
the history of Freemasons in Thailand.
Part of the information received indicates that back in 1876 it is on
record that there were 17 regularly constituted Freemasons in Bangkok. This could be said
to be Thailand’s second oldest foreign society - after the Bangkok Ladies Library
Association, now known as Neilson Hays Library.
In April 1905, a petition to form a Lodge was sent to England
recommended by the Freemasons of Singapore through the English District Grand Lodge (the
Scottish District Grand Lodge of the Middle East in Malaya had not then come into being).
The name of the Lodge was to be Lodge Menam and McKenzie Skinner was
designated first Master.
 HE Deputy Prime Minister Bhichai Rattakul gives
a “Toast to the host” at the installation dinner of Lodge Pattaya West Winds, 30th
January 1999.
Unfortunately, there were problems after problems and by the end of
1906 it began to be plain that the Lodge Menam as planned would not come into being.
However, on March 23rd 1907, it was decided to establish a Lodge in Bangkok under the
Scottish constitution. But, it wasn’t until 4th August 1910 that the charter of the
Lodge St. John in Bangkok was signed in Edinburgh.
It was indeed an uphill effort by those pioneers of the Freemasonry
movement in Thailand!
As a non-member of the Freemasonry movement, this is a great experience
of a lifetime to me - to common man who tries to make good. But, as the Right Worshipful
master, you, Khun Xanxai Visitkul, not only have a very important duty to perform, but
conscientiously or not, I know that you will take up this responsibility with dignity and
effectively. This is after all the mission you have pledged to your members, all of whom
have confidence in you, to do your utmost to lead and bring your Lodge to a new height.
So, don’t let your guards down. Don’t let your members down
and above all, don’t let your movement down... and remember... survival alone is not
enough, it is whom you survive for that is important.
Ladies and gentlemen, I must admit that when I was invited to attend
this function, I knew, there and then, with my ignorance about the Freemasonry movement,
it would be an "eye opener" for me and for many of us here, to learn more about
the ideals and the good deeds of this movement, which has been in existence for some 400
years.
In this respect, you - Sir - The Right Worshipful Master Xanxai
Visitkul and the members of the Lodge Pattaya West Winds did not disappoint us.
Perhaps I may sound flattering, but it is with this sincere feeling and
understanding, through the long friendship I have been enjoying with you for more than
three decades, that led me to state in my opening remarks that ...it was dark a few days
ago, but we now see some light.
If I may be allowed to say at this point, like many other
organizations, the Freemasonry movement’s main tenets are the constant practice of
Brotherly Love, Relief, and Truth. It also promotes harmony, contributes to charity and
subscribes to moral living among its members and the society at large. The presence of so
many dignitaries abroad proves beyond any doubt that you are truly practicing brotherly
love and promoting harmony and goodwill amongst members everywhere.
What a noble cause!
Thus, tonight, I think it is most appropriate to look at what has been
accomplished based on the movement’s doctrine and principle.
I think we should assess on our past performances by perhaps looking on
the lives that have been saved, the hearts that have been touched, and the smiles and the
sighs of relief that have been created... not with a sense of pride nor a sense of
complacency, but with a revitalized determination to do even more, to work even harder and
to right the wrong for a better tomorrow. For Love, Relief and Truth anywhere, the
Freemasonry movement is there.
Indeed, you should be proud of the part you are performing, but I am
quite sure that when it comes to the practicality of its application, it is tolerance,
goodwill, harmony and friendship among the members that have really touched the hearts and
inspired the spirit of everyone for more than four centuries.
Yet, very often we find that many organizations, despite their very
noble ideal, lack the teeth to carry out their mission successfully and, worse still, the
lack of unity and harmony among themselves. They are members only in names to protect
their own narrow vested interest. They seek only self-glory and reputation... forgetting
the old saying that: your reputation is the outcome of what you do; your character is
determined by what you think.
It is my conviction, therefore, that no matter what organization we
belong to, no matter what position we hold and what status we enjoy... we are all common
people. But, as common people if we can do the common things in life in an uncommon way,
we will command the attention of not only those who need our help, but the entire world.
This should be the ultimate goal of our membership in any organization.
Great is the excitement of this evening function. Hope and great
expectation in the Freemasonry movement for the future to await. This cannot be denied by
you and how you, the Right Worshipful Master Xanxai Visitkul feel at this moment. But,
even greater I hope, is your sense of humility and responsibility in not disappointing
those hopes and expectations. And above all your aspiration to maintain the spirit of
unity, create the atmosphere of harmony and the ability to persevere in fighting and
overcoming the many challenges that confront you. Remember, the great Titanic was sunk, a
great part was due to the lack of unity of the officers in charge when it struck the
iceberg.
Ladies and gentlemen, on our part as guests of the Lodge Pattaya West
Winds, permit me to say this on behalf: we are very grateful for the invitation extended
to us.
Gratitude from us takes three forms... a feeling in the heart, an
expression in words and, a giving in return.
We give you in return by expressing once again our sincere and
heartfelt thanks for inviting us to this very pleasant and impressive evening. This
experience will be a long lasting memory to all your guests and I can assure you that this
memory will be the dairy that we will carry with us for many years to come.
Thank you one and all. Thank you for your graciousness. Thank you for your warm
hospitality and your loving care. And may all the good things in life be always with you.
Rediscovering ourselves through
Alcoholics Anonymous
by Aryada
Last week, a successful three day annual meeting of the Pattaya
Alcoholics Anonymous took place at the Amari Orchid Resort.
Of course no picture could be taken and no real names can be mentioned.
Only one thing is there to say! I have seldom seen so many people, of different sexes and
nationalities, showing such friendship and care for each other.
Alcoholic Anonymous is a fellowship of men and women who share their
experience, strength and hope with each other that they may solve their common problem and
help others to recover from alcoholism. It is a fellowship of people who have lost their
ability to control drinking and have found themselves in various kinds of trouble as a
result of their drinking. They attempt - most of them successfully - to create a
satisfying way of life without alcohol.
Mr. Jerry, one of the men in charge, told the history of Alcoholics
Anonymous:
Dr. Robert "Bob" Holbrook Smith started drinking during his
four years at Dartmouth College, graduating in 1902. Three years later, having worked at
various jobs in Boston and Montreal, he entered the University of Michigan as a premed
student. Here, the pace of drinking accelerated, and in his sophomore year he left school
temporarily, feeling he couldn’t complete his course. Yet he returned and passed his
exams. After further training he received his medical degree and secured an internship in
city hospital, Akron, Ohio. Completing his internship in 1912, he opened an office in
Akron, remaining there until his retirement in 1948. Even after his wedding with Anne
Ripley in 1915, his alcoholism progressed steadily, yet he was able to function, and few
of his colleagues knew how serious his illness was. In 1928, he met sister Ignatia for the
first time at St. Thomas Hospital, Akron. Dr. Bob was always in desperate search for an
answer to his problem and joined the Oxford Group to seek help. But it was not until May
1935, when a meeting with another alcoholic, William "Bill" Griffith Wilson, led
to his own permanent sobriety and to the formation of the Fellowship of Alcoholics
Anonymous. It is estimated that Dr. Bob, with the help of Sister Ignatia, guided some
5,000 fellow alcoholics to recovery during his 15 years of loving ministry to them.
Regarding AA, he tried to make every decision in the best interests of the group, to the
exclusion of any personal advantage. He never ceased to be surprised that so many people
sought him out, but he felt he had only been God’s agent and so was not due any
personal credit. Dr. Bob died of cancer in November 1950.
The co-founder of Alcoholics Anonymous, Bill Wilson, started his
business career after serving in the Army in France during World War I, already married to
Lois Burnham. It was during this period of military service that he started to drink, with
disastrous results almost at once. After several jobs he worked as a field investigator
for various groups with financial interests. His field reports on industrial properties
and their management was the basis for heavy investment and speculative commitments, in
which he was often given an interest. By 1931, however, his drinking had become a serious
problem. Despite Lois’s efforts and the many promises and pledges to stop drinking
made to her and business associates, the compulsion to drink was too strong. Over the next
three years, what had promised to be a brilliant Wall Street career, rapidly deteriorated.
In November 1934, he learned from an old friend how the Oxford Group was able sometimes to
help alcoholics. In Towns Hospital a month later, reflecting upon his friend’s
message and in total despair, he cried out for help. Bill has described what then occurred
as an overwhelming and awesome spiritual experience, carrying the conviction of a release
from drinking and an insight that in helping other alcoholics he could maintain his own
sobriety.
Bill’s service to AA spanned 36 years, during which, with the help
of other old-timers, he formulated AA’s recovery program, codified into a set of
Traditions the first ten years of its group experience. He wrote four books for the
movement and contributed numerous articles about AA to internal and outside publications.
He often spoke before medical, psychiatric, and religious societies, and testified (in
closed sessions) before various state and federal legislative committee hearings on
alcoholism. During his lifetime, he declined all public honors, setting an example for the
whole Fellowship. He died of pneumonia in January 1971.
A few alcoholics who originally came from other groups, mainly from
Bangkok ,founded the Pattaya Alcoholic Anonymous Fellowship in 1991. Mr. Chris, so Jerry
told me, was the one who coordinated this self-supporting group. Since AA is an anonymous
group, they call each other only by their first name, to guarantee this anonymity. New
members are told that they shouldn’t be shy if they meet someone they know during
their meetings, for all people are here for the same reason. Nobody’s identity will
ever be disclosed to outsiders and nobody has to reveal anything about himself. No
membership files or attendance records are kept and nobody will bother you if you
don’t want to come back.
Continued next week.
Copyright 1998 Pattaya Mail Publishing Co.Ltd.
370/7-8 Pattaya Second Road, Pattaya City, Chonburi 20260, Thailand
Tel.66-38 411 240-1, 413 240-1, Fax:66-38 427 596; e-mail: [email protected]
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