The adjacent doorway into Bagan

by Gary Hacker

Late November, 1999 - “No way will I travel there!” “That Country could erupt in mass chaos at any moment.” “Keri, it’s just too dangerous now to visit Myanmar,” I told my daughter during her recent visit to Thailand. “Last month the Myanmar Embassy in Bangkok was involved in an armed takeover by protesting students and tensions are high with conflict breaking out around the borders,” I stated.

Myanmar (formally Burma, and renamed by the current military dictatorship) has been under constant turmoil since the election in 1990, when the dictatorship failed to recognize the National League for Democracy, who unanimously won the popular vote at the polls.

Burma Temple, Yangon

My daughter relented and suggested another itinerary for our vacation together but I knew she was disappointed and had her heart set on visiting Bagan in Burma. I thought of how rare it is to be able to travel with Keri and how the educational experience could benefit her. I called Kwanjai at my wholesale travel company in Bangkok and booked the flight for the following day.

Myanmar Airways charges B5500 for the round trip flight. We had to make a quick trip to the Myanmar Consulate in Bangkok to obtain a tourist visa, which was processed the same day. Without permission, no one employed by the media can enter the country. Keri, 25, a screenwriter for a Los Angeles TV production company, simply wrote she was a professional.

The outbound procedures went quickly and we were off on the less than two hour flight to Yangon (formerly Rangoon), the capital city. There is a relatively small airport, not designed for frequent international flights, that entails a long walk across the concourse to the terminal building. Soldiers carrying automatic weapons guarded the portals.

Ruins of the Mingun Paya

Upon entering, there is a row of tough looking immigration inspectors who scrutinized the visas we obtained in Bangkok. We were pointed to two booths that collect the mandatory $300.00 fee from each arrival and issue FEC’s in their place. The “Federal Exchange Certificates” are redeemable at any Government store or hotel, but are not refundable upon departure. I laughed with the administrator and refused to buy the certificates. Keri became anxious and I could see she was in distress. I stepped aside with the official and amazed Keri by talking him into accepting $300 from the two of us; he smiled and we patted each other on the back. This is Asia and I have found most things to be negotiable.

Exiting Customs, we were besieged with guides, all yelling and describing their hotels. We pushed our way through and found seats in the waiting room where we studied Keri’s Lonely Planet Guide and some local brochures that were being passed around.

Hungry tout guides stood by, as we were the only arrivals who were not on a planned Government tour. We did not have the local currency (Kyat, pronounced “chat”) and the official exchange at the airport is 6 Kyat to $1.00. I had been here previously (three years back) and remembered that the black market was over 100, so we paid the long cab ride in dollars ($4). It turned out that the popular exchange for American dollars (which locals are not officially allowed to possess) is now 340-360 to $1.00.

The traffic had increased substantially since my last visit three years back and gasoline is no longer rationed. Yangon is busy and green with trees and thriving vegetation. We arrived at a small hotel near the river, clean with friendly staff and spacious rooms, and sat down to make travel plans. (Queens Park Hotel 132 Anawrahta Rd. $22, full breakfast included.)

We purchased one-way plane tickets to Mandalay, the second largest city in Myanmar for $110 each on Yangon Airways, a new domestic airline competing with Myanma Air (Government) and Air Mandalay, which started two years back. They all seem to use the two engine ATR72 aircraft, the government ones had seen better days.

Like most tourists, we started with the Shwedagon Paya in central Yangon, which bears a huge gold dome reflecting the sunlight, a dazzling sight when first seen. It is an enchanting place to spend an afternoon. We were in awe of the many unique golden pagodas and lavish marble and tile floors and ceilings.

Keri takes a rest at the Burma Temple, Yangon

That night we ate over the water at a three-decker restaurant with exquisite food and atmosphere. They opened a special wine I brought and one of their curry dishes was truly memorable. (Junior Duck Restaurant Yangon River Road across from the Strand Hotel.)

Lunch or dinner at the Strand is a must. This original British hotel was built in the 30s and is a landmark in Yangon. The hotel mogul Adrian Zecha from Bali reportedly spent over $36 million US dollars on a complete remodel four years ago. The place is gorgeous but remains empty with the non-discountable rack rate of $400 a night. A ridiculous price in Yangon, but beautiful to see.

Hotel rates are usually negotiable and the Kandawgyi Palace on the Royal Lake offers a spa at the foot of your bed and your private pool outside of your own villa. The hotel’s rack rate is $275 that can be negotiated as low as $80 including meals. This would be my choice next time around.

Off to Mandalay (“where the Flying Fishes play”). Many choices on hotels there and fierce competition for the business. A $1 cab ride delivered us to the Mandalay Swan Hotel with an elaborate entrance and lobby. Again, rack rates are high but were discounted to about 35% of asking. Keri and I shared a suite overlooking a spectacular pool with excellent poolside service. (Rack rate $180, we paid $60.) Several restaurants within the hotel grounds provided delicious local food and a fun marionette show. Sedona Hotel is another choice next door to the Swan with similar rates and amenities.

A Mandalay local restaurant serving authentic Burmese food is Aye-Myit-Tar at 530 81st Street between 36th & 37th. We had trouble eating, as our SIX young waiters stood around the table observing every bite we ate and watching our expressions. We shared several steaming platters of chicken, fish and duck and I’m sure few tourists ever eat there. We were the center of attention and felt quite conspicuous. The bill was less than $4.

Mingun was one of the highlights of our trip. A two hour boat ride to the opposite bank of the Irrawaddy River discloses a tiny village nestled in the trees which remains much like it was fifty years ago. Hard wooden benches on a small antique wooden boat (without life jackets) provide a trip with lots of local color.

As the boat nosed onto a sandy beach, we disembarked and walked up a short incline to Mingun. Horses and carts were there for taxis. A footpath parallel to the river takes you to the ruins of the Mingun Paya, the base of an uncompleted temple built by King Bodawpaya who died when half way through the construction. If he had lived, Mingun could have boasted the tallest zedi in the world.

The friendly people and the little girls who held our hands provided us with a remembered welcome. Keri met a girl her age who acted as our guide and took us to lunch at her private home where we spent the afternoon. The town is a not-to-be-missed experience.

The many marketplaces in Mandalay and the huge palace and moat in the center of town create a city immerged in Burmese culture. We bicycled around old town dodging ruts and chuckholes and ignoring the stares from the locals and uniformed children getting out of school. Everyone was curious and helpful.

Bagan (Pagan) was the drawing card that triggered Keri’s desire to visit Myanmar. It is considered to be the most amazing site in Southeast Asia. On a stretch of land covering over 40 square kilometers along the Irrawaddy River stand thousands of stupas and temples. In every direction, you see the huge and glorious temples soaring toward the sky. Some come with elaborate historical tales while others just carry a number.

Dating back two and a half centuries, these brick and cast structures carry the remnants of elaborate drawings and paintings on the walls and ceilings and tiny staircases within the walls allowing access to the open ledges and peaks far above.

Keri suggested getting there by boat, which sounded relaxing and informative. Checking the schedules, we found that the reported short boat ride was actually twelve hours and sitting on the river for that length of time was not my idea of fun; so we decided to fly.

We met U. San Win, the station manager, at the office in Mandalay. He had a cast on his left arm and was adept at answering the phone, talking with us and doing his paper work at the same time. He turned up at the airport collecting the tickets, again at the Immigration line, again ushering us into the plane and I fully expected him to don a Captain’s hat and disappear into the cockpit. He did direct the plane waving a light with his good arm and waved goodbye as we accelerated out of the parking space directly onto the lonely dark runway. The only other passengers aboard were from a tour. (One way to Bagan for $42.)

We exited at Nyaung Oo into an even smaller airport than Mandalay and asked the friendly ticket agent where we should stay in Bagan. A dilapidated cab bounced along a pitch-black dirt road and we could see in the silhouette, large structures shadowed around us. After what seemed like hours, a large lit gate appeared announcing our arrival at the Thante Hotel on the river. This is reported to be the best accommodation in Old Bagan and has been recently remodeled in grand style.

We opted for the best category and were shown to picturesque bungalows with decks over the river featuring teak floors with high pointed ceilings. My snoring bothered Keri so we had adjoining dwellings with massive tile and marble bathrooms. A great breakfast buffet was served on the riverfront with friendly uniformed waiters and eggs cooked to perfection. (Thante Hotel rack rate $98, negotiated to $35 including breakfast.)

We hired a private car with guide and driver and set out to see the temples. (Dawn to sunset for $25.) The cool breeze blew through the vehicle eliminating the necessity for air con. With literally thousands of monuments to see, we were only interested in visiting the major attractions. One could spend weeks visiting and studying the various temples and stupas and never run out of new ones to see.

Our guide was eager and excited to work with two American tourists and spent time showing us every important detail. His English was excellent and, although forbidden by the Government, he was anxious to ask us all kinds of questions about the outside world.

The time spent at Bagan was fascinating and only compares with the trip Keri and I made to Angkor Wat in Cambodia earlier this year.

Thinking about Myanmar, what stands out is the deprivation of basic rights that we all take for granted. Citizens are not allowed to use computers (people approached us and asked what they were) and (outside of Yangon) they have no movies, bars or places for gathering and entertainment. The Government has closed all of the universities. Permits are necessary for Burmese to travel outside of their own districts. Foreign travel for them is almost impossible. Basic medical care is only obtainable by the wealthy and the military; people are dying unable to obtain the proper medicine. The Government scrutinized Keri and me wherever we went. Our passports were constantly examined and immigration checks were required at every domestic airport; officially, we could only stay at licensed hotels and forms were filled out at each location.

During our stay, we attempted to spend our money at local establishments and did our best to benefit the local people rather than the government. Several local residents whispered to us of their dissatisfaction and were fascinated by the freedom we enjoyed.

I was ready and anxious to get back home to Thailand and felt a warm glow when we were airborne and on our way back to Bangkok. Myanmar is a boiling cauldron ready to erupt and will one day hopefully have the basic freedoms that we take so much for granted.

by Elfi

The Thai Hotel Association, (Eastern Chapter) under the leadership of their president, the Dusit Resort’s General Manager, Khun Chatchawal Supachayanont, invited members and associates for a glittering “Family Millennium Party” at the Dusit Resort on February 19th.

Chatchawal proudly presents to the audience the newly elected “Miss Millennium”, Ms. Sunee Pachana.

Grand preparations must have taken place a long time in advance to make this night into the event it was: a truly grand, fun and entertaining party. Many of the hotels took part in the entertainment, and what could have been better than dance shows! Woodland’s Resort brought a group of dancers from Tiffany’s who opened the evening with a flamboyant dance. They were followed by staff members of the Dusit Resort who were no less exciting. The Royal Garden sent three lovely girls from their Sports Center who combined for a very attractive, futuristic dance, which included an exhausting-looking step dance.

Jumroon Visachaiyaphant, GM of the Seaview Resort, gives the last touch to “Mister Millenium”, Perre Andre Pelletier’s banderole.

Pattaya’s very own Khun Santsak Ngampiches, the Chairman of the Standing Committee on Tourism of the House of Representatives, gave a long and humorous speech, during which he congratulated Mayor Pairat Suttithamrongsawat on his overwhelming victory at the last elections.

The first prize of the event was a Star Cruise for two to Vietnam. The Managing Director of KN Travel, Teerapong Hemwadee presents the ticket to lucky winner Nakorn Latananakin, F& B Manager of the Montien Hotel, while Pichit Tantiprasert, GM of the Town in Town Hotel looks on.

Members were then treated to a sumptuous and beautifully displayed buffet. The members of the Thai Hotel Association, all showing a special kind of unity, joined hands in preparing the food. Various dishes came from the Amari Orchid Resort, the Astoria Hotel, the Grand Sole Hotel, the Merlin Hotel, the Montien Hotel, the Mountain Beach Hotel, the Royal Garden Resort, the Seaview Resort, the Siam Bayview Hotel, the Sunbeam Hotel, the Thai Garden Resort, the City Sriracha Hotel, the Town in Town Hotel, the Woodland’s Resort and, mostly of all, from the host, the Dusit Resort.

Anusak Rodboonmee, Asia Hotel’s General Manager (middle) drew the lucky number of Pichate Siriwongkomut, GM of the Sunbeam Hotel. He received his prize, an airline ticket to Khon Kaen, from Thai Airways District Sales Manager for Eastern Thailand, Chetseni Dhanarajata.

The second part of the entertainment started with a magic show sponsored by the Town in Town Hotel and performed by “Mr. Tuxedo’ and his pretty assistant “Ms. Jeans”. After this magic touch, Mr. Nicky of the Dance Club at the Sunbeam Hotel and his team of Ms. Bee, Ms. Runghthip and Mr. Hong, gave a stunning performance of Latin American dances.

“Eddy” is flanked by two lovely ladies, Apichaiya Chinnannon, GM of Mermaid’s Resort (left) and Araya Kertsrisuk, head of housekeeping department of the Royal Garden (right).

Yet the absolute highlight of the evening was still to come: A fashion show featuring recycled materials and modeled by managers and heads of departments of all the hotels. The stars of this fashion parade were not only beautiful women, but included Chatchawal Supachayanont, GM of the Dusit Resort, Pierre Andre Pelletier, GM of the Amari Orchid Resort and Setthaphan “Eddy” Bhuddhani, the Director of the Tourism Authority of Thailand Region 3.

To top it all, hard working MC’s Ms. Sirithorn Kraivissutsap and Mr. Pongkrissana Kamolhart called guests from the audience up onto the stage to perform in fun and games. Both emcees, clad in very futuristic yet Thai looking silver-colored outfits, were joined by the Assistant Manager of the Siam Bayview Hotel, Veeranat Limprasut.

The true stars of the evening gather for a photograph: Santsak Ngampiches (middle), with Mayor Pairat Suttithamrongsawat on his right side and Chatchawal Supachayanont on his left side. The Vice President-Projects of the Imperial Hotel is standing next to a lovely lady from Bangkok and Ms. Rungthip. Another THA member from Bangkok (far left) is in good company with Surapong Techaruvichit, the chairman of the PR & Marketing department of THA Bangkok (second from left) and Chanin Donavanik, the president of THA Bangkok and at the same time the son of the owners of the Dusit Group (third from left).

Another highlight of the event was the crowning of Miss and Mister Millennium. The audience voted by buying roses and presenting them to the persons of their choice. Well, they certainly did a good job by choosing Ms. Suree Pachana of the Dusit Resort and Pierre Andre Pelletier of the Amari Orchid Resort.

Raffle prizes were drawn as well, with main prizes including return flights for two to Vietnam and Chiang Mai. For those guests who were not lucky enough to win one of the many raffle prizes, presents were waiting for them at the end of the party.

To the sounds of “Amazing Thailand”, the Tiffany’s Show group performed another dance to round up this very exciting and beautiful event.