South to Kuala Lumpur and Singapore

by Gary Hacker

Rusty has combed almost every city in Southeast Asia and has uncovered their innermost secrets. When he asked my friend Bob and I to accompany him on a visit to Singapore and Kuala Lumpur, we jumped at the chance. We call Rusty “The Shadow”; originally from Atlanta, Georgia, he has spent years traveling through Asia and his magnetic personality and great sense of humor make him the perfect guide to uncover hidden places in foreign cities.

The Menara Tower features a public observation platform with dynamic views over the entire city.

We left Bangkok on Swiss Air, according to Rusty a cheap link to Singapore and only a two-hour flight (Baht 5,000rt). The new Singapore Airport is huge and an adventure in itself. So many duty free shops and tiny places to eat, we made a mental note to arrive early for our return flight. Taxis carry an airport surcharge and extra charges for the commute hours. We checked into the Tai Hoe Hotel in the Indian Quarter of Singapore, close to downtown and to the discount electronic warehouses. The Tai Hoe offers special rates for Internet reservations (s$58) and although the rooms are small, they are bright and clean. Tap water in Singapore is clean and safe to drink. The current exchange rate is Singapore $1.74 to one US Dollar.

Our first stop of the evening was to sip a drink at the Long Bar at the famous Raffles Hotel. The courtyard and common areas are extravagant and the center garden offers a place to relax and chat. For dinner, we headed for a little known Chinese restaurant next to the tall Sim Lim Center, a complex specializing in everything electronic. Unpretentious with straight back chairs and Formica tables, the mouth-watering aroma of Asian spices and food saut้ing on many pans, drew us to the entrance. (Sun Chui Yuen Restoran) Rusty ordered an elaborate spread of exotic cuisine and we dug in with gusto savoring every morsel. We left too full to even think of desert; following “The Shadow”, we proceeded down some dark alleys to a small below level bar filled with happy locals enjoying a wide array of beers and Asian tidbits. It was almost midnight and with eyes drooping, we headed back to our hotel.

Tramway up to the majestic heights of Genting Highlands

The next day was spent at Sim Lim Center, looking at stereo components and comparing prices to Thailand. The Center is a wonderland of hand phones, hi-fi stuff and computer accessories. I found a sought after CD burner at an amazingly low price and Bobby discovered some strong self powered speakers at an excellent value. Rusty had his own errands and Bobby and I were left to wander around the city and shop in the local malls and specialty shops. Aside from electronics, we found Singapore to be more expensive overall than Thailand and definitely lacking the smiles. That evening, we were taken to a most unusual restaurant. The Red Book (or House of Mau) is like stepping into China; the d้cor features paintings of Mau and large murals of Tienemen Square depicting communist teachings. The bar offered an array of cocktails and the food was delicious. A very unusual atmosphere and worth seeing. (51 Telok Ayer St.)

The twin Petrona Towers dazzle in the sunlight

The same night we experienced one of the most superlative adventures of our trip. Rusty led us to the worlds only “Night Safari”, a jungle of nocturnal animals in their natural environment located about 35 minutes out of town. Under the magical night sky with the moon and stars above, we embarked down a trail with just enough lighting to discover the many unusual and unknown species of animals, most at very close range. Paths wind through the dense foliage built through the vastness of a national wildlife park and the darkness magnifies all six senses resulting in a nature walk that will be long remembered. A tram is available for the less adventurous but does not include many of the dark corners and dimly lit forest scenes. The walk is about 1.7 kilometers, all fairly level, but seems much shorter. A large brown bear emerged from behind a tree and several tigers with their cubs lounged just feet from the footpath. As we passed a small creek full of boa constrictors, I tickled Rusty’s bare ankle with a long stick and he screamed with shock and jumped high in the air to everyone’s delight.

An interesting place to wander in the afternoon is along Clarke Quay next to the Singapore River. There are numerous small bars and nightclubs that cater to the young crowd, among those “The Crazy Elephant”, “The Blues & Booze” and the “The Rachet”. Rusty’s favorite was the “Black Penny” where we had delicious “Bacon Toasties”, thin-cut grilled French bread with crisp bacon and tomato covered with slices of melted Swiss cheese, yum. Another great find was “Spageddies Italian Kitchen” located out in Tanglin Mall about a 20-minute taxi ride from City Center.

Enjoying the delicious steaks at the Coliseum Cafe

The following days were spent roaming around Singapore exploring unknown shops and restaurants that Rusty had found on earlier trips. A modern people mover is the MRT underground, extremely fast with a train every few minutes. Fares range from s$.70 to s$1.60.

A few days later, we departed on the Kuala Lumpur-Singapore Express, an early morning bus for a six-hour trip to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (s$25). This bus has only three large seats across and good picture windows for viewing the passing roadside and small cities. We arrived in Kuala Lumpur in the early afternoon and checked into the Fortuna Hotel, another one of our leader’s great finds. The city was a big surprise to both Bobby and me. We had pictured it as a step down from Bangkok but the unusual architecture and wide streets with good traffic flow were a cut above anything in Thailand.

The Red Book (or House of Mau) is like stepping into China

Kuala Lumpur is a city of magnificent high-rises, each one different and a masterpiece of architecture. The twin Petrona Towers dazzle in the sunlight and reflections from their bright silver exterior distinguish them from all others. The shopping malls try to outdo each other with tall columns and cut glass ceilings with pinpoints of light along the tiers of trendy shops. Sidewalks are crowded with busy shoppers and walkways cross under the busy streets or connect the malls with high flyovers. The rapid transit system is clean and efficient and the four legs of the line cover most of the city. Even the underground loading platforms are air-conditioned.

The Fortuna Hotel is located in the center of town within walking distance to most attractions. Rusty bargained for a rate of 102 Ringgits (about US$27) including breakfast and the spacious rooms had bathtubs and elegant wood trim. The Fortuna, like most local hotels, features a “health club” that offers various massages and baths; however, Pattaya has spoiled us and we found the prices for the services to be far above what we are used to paying.

Looking up at the Menara Tower

There are a number of restaurants near the hotel and one is called “The Ship” at #1 Scotts Road. Prices are reasonable and the atmosphere and food were tops. Internet services abound but it takes some tries to find one with efficient computers. Just around the corner from the hotel and upstairs we found a jewel with quick machines for 4 Ringgits an hour.

Our first day in Kuala Lumpur we elected to visit “The Menara Tower”, a spectacular landmark in the center of the city. At 421 meters above the ground, it is one of the tallest concrete towers in the world. The structure was built in 1996 to enhance the quality of communications and the Tower Head features a public observation platform with dynamic views over the entire city. We took one of the four elevators to the top and our ears plugged and popped during the rapid ascent. A fire had broken out in a residential area to the East and we watched as fire equipment rushed across town and we could see the flames as they broke through the roofs of the structures. The views were stupendous and I was glad to establish the city boundaries before we began our exploration.

We set out on foot and walked along tree-covered streets and through freshly landscaped parks and along the narrow streets of Chinatown. We recognized an enchantment about the city, the air was fresh, the sun shone brightly overhead and we walked late into the afternoon before returning to the hotel. By the way, the current exchange rate in KL is 3.8 Ringgits to US$1 making everything quite reasonable.

Promoting the Petronas F1 Malaysian Grand Prix

There are flashy franchised American restaurants on the street corners of Jalan Sultan Avenue and we elected to sample some tidbits at cocktail time, settling for mediocre appetizers and expensive drinks. We found the local Malay food far more appealing.

A bright sunny morning and we negotiated with a taxi (Rg70) to take us out of town and up to the majestic heights of Genting Highlands. Rusty had discovered a dazzling casino complex atop a towering mountain and a tramway carried us the rest of the way across majestic canyons to a platform high above the terrain. We had lunch at the Friendship Chinese Restaurant and nibbled at trays of Dim Sum and sipped large glasses of Chinese tea. The views are overwhelming. The casino is huge with colored lighting and busy tables in each of four large areas. We had to rent batik shirts for Rg3 in order to gain entrance. The roulette and blackjack tables stretched as far as we could see. The gambling spirit was intoxicating but we made our small contribution and left before suffering any sizeable losses. We took the tram back down the mountain and caught a tour bus to town. We got off at an early stop on Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman to visit the Coliseum Caf้ and Hotel that Rusty had discovered on his last trip. The historic structure was built in 1921 and is well known among the locals of the city. The bar d้cor is magnificent. The old wood paneling and high ceilings date back to a period long forgotten. After sipping cocktails and nibbling some mouthwatering onion strings, we decided to adjourn to the long rectangular restaurant and try one of the Coliseum’s famous steaks. Overseeing the white linen covered tables were crisp dressed waiters in white starched shirts and black ties. We weren’t disappointed, as the steaks were served on sizzling black platters with an unusual dark gravy that enhanced the tender beef. Platters of roast potatoes and crisp fresh vegetables covered our table.

We had to rent batik shirts for Rg3 in order to gain entrance to the casino

A few days later it was time for Bobby and I to leave the city and make our way back to Singapore for our return flight to Bangkok. Rusty was flying back to the States from Kuala Lumpur so we elected to take the train back to Singapore. First Class train fare was 68 Ringgit giving us wide seats with footrests and excellent air con. The scenery was different from road travel and we captured the backcountry, creeks and streams and isolated ranches and villages along the railway. We arrived in time to meet a friend of Bobby’s who lived in Singapore and took us to an out-of-the-way seafood restaurant. Located down an alley and on the fourth floor of a residential building, it featured a romantic atmosphere and a wide selection of fresh fish. The following day we left on our flight to Bangkok and sipped wine as we talked about Singapore and Malaysia and our intention to return again one day soon.

The Olympic Peninsula, Washington State’s Natural Treasure

by Chalerm Raksanti

On a clear day, the Olympic Mountains, rising out of their fog bank, are easily seen from the streets of the American city of Seattle, 40 miles to the east. But when one looks back toward Seattle from this wild country, the metropolis seems very distant. Here on the Olympic Peninsula of the USA’s western shores, Washington State’s northeast corner resounds with the primeval energy of a wilderness untamed. From the pounding of the surf of Pacific beaches, to lush rain forests, profound respect for nature still reigns.

Deer range free in the valleys below the timber line

There is a swagger of self-confidence in the people who reside on this thumb of land which nudges into the Pacific Ocean from the edge of the continent. It comes from besting nature in her wildest exuberance. Beneath the Pacific marine layer of fog which shrouds both coast and forest, one finds some of the world’s tallest trees, the fattest salmon, most exotic coastline, wettest weather, and mountains so rugged they seem the frigid home for gods.

Of course, the peninsula is no longer truly mysterious. Millions of visitors make their way here each year. Still, there is wilderness enough, as seen from deep in the backwoods of the Olympic National Park. And the Douglas Fir is the kind of tree which makes your hat fall off when you throw your head back to see the top.

Huge spruce logs being trimmed in a yard near Forks, WA

By dodging huge logging trucks which grind their way along the two-lane track of the Olympic Loop Highway, it is possible to complete the circuit of this 6,500 square mile peninsula in a single day. But who would want to rush through this pride of the Pacific Northwest? In its northwestern corner, called the West End, a traveller wanders into remote timber towns, elegantly named Sappho, and less elegantly, Forks. The West End is wild, woodsy, thinly settled. The road runs down hushed aisles of lofty Douglas fir, hemlock and Sitka spruce, and passes through deadened stretches of clear-cut forest, forlorn and empty. But from every side of the peninsula, its crown jewel, the mountainous 900,000 acre Olympic National Park is visible, veined with snow and glacier ice, even in July. Along the edges, a patchwork of alpine wildflowers bloom. Six hundred miles of hiking trails grace this national wilderness, and the interior is accessible in many places only on foot. Set aside by the US Congress in 1938, this park includes a 50 mile long stretch of wild and scenic beach. Nine American Indian reservations control an additional 162,00 acres.

Rainforest on Olympic Peninsula

An immense rain trap for the moist Pacific winds that buffet their windward slopes, the Olympic Mountains divide the peninsula into contrasting zones. While rainfall in excess of 140 inches per year nourishes luxuriant temperate rain forest along the valleys of the Hoh, Queets, and Quinault Rivers, a rain shadow casts the northeast side into relative dryness, demanding occasional irrigation of farms in this area.

Off the coast the Pacific breathes in mammoth swells. Due north, Vancouver Island lies ten miles across the Strait of Juan de Fuca. To the east glitters Hood Canal (a fjord dug deep by glaciers), Puget Sound, and a cluster of quiet inlets which are breeding grounds for the world’s rarest and tastiest oysters.

The peninsula’s oldest town, Port Townsend was originally built on tide-land in the northeast corner of the region. Settled by sea captains and merchants from New England, it has the look of America’s eastern seaboard about it. Vast Victorian houses and gracious inns, turreted and gingerbready, the chief economy here is tourism. At the end of the 19th Century, Port Townsend laid great plans to build a rail spur to join the Union Pacific at Portland, Oregon. Dreams of becoming a premier port were dashed when the deal collapsed, and the established line linking Seattle and Tacoma on the east side of the Puget Sound took the traffic. Now, Port Townsend is a centre for artists and musicians, a town populated with unconventional people deserting the hassle of urban life.

Banked in fog, surf pounds Pacific beaches on Washington State’s Olympic Peninsula

From Port Townsend westward, the Strait of Juan de Fuca cuts a broad, blue-green channel nearly a hundred miles to the Pacific Ocean. This is a truly magnificent waterway, 14 miles wide at the mouth, and deep enough to allow the US Navy’s big submarines easy access to their base on the Hood Canal. The Pacific, streaming into the strait throws everything from whales to World War II mines onto the beaches. Wandering across these wide, endless stretches of sand, a beachcomber will find hundreds of logs, scoured by the waves, stacked and bleached by the sun. These logs are escapees from the booms - the big floating islands of timber en route from forest to market. Sometimes the logs escape from their chains, float away, and are washed up on the beach. On the park’s western border, it is possible to walk through the rain forest. That quirk of nature which dumps rivers of rainfall in this area will turn crops to dust just 40 miles over the other side of the mountains.

The jagged peaks of the Olympic Mountains

Logging on the peninsula is a controversial industry. The Untied Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organisation, (UNESCO) has listed the Olympic National Park as one of its 165 World Heritage Sites, together with the Pyramids, the Galapagos Islands, and the Taj Mahal. But there are others who view the park and its federal managers more darkly. People who make their living cutting and marketing timber angrily feel the government has grabbed land which belongs to them. Despite the boom and bust cycles, timber is clearly a mainstay of the economy on the Olympic. Men who work in the woods wear the traditional logger’s uniform; red suspenders, striped shirt, denim pants cut off at mid calf to prevent snagging on the underbrush, and high top calk boots.

But where no axe has been raised in the luxuriance of the Olympic rain forest, wind-toppled trees provide nourishment for saplings, while moss and ferns feed on the very air. As the locals claim, this is God’s country. The natural solitude and the almost stubborn adherence of some of the residents to nature’s more deliberate rhythms, keep this wilderness an unmatched treasure.

Stress Seminar well attended

The Bangkok Pattaya Hospital’s seminar on Stress in Thailand held last weekend was very well received by the people attending. The panel of Bangkok based German psychologist Dominique Norz and Dr Iain Corness were assisted by Dr Jonathan Corness (Australia) and Dr. Supoj (Thailand) with moderation from Walter Jack Heller.

(L to R) Dr Jonathan Corness, Walter Jack Heller, German psychologist Dominique Norz and Dr Iain Corness.

Much spirited discussion took place after the didactic opening session and it was decided to form a ‘Support Group’ for those who felt they could benefit from this. Neera Sirisampan from the International Department of the Bangkok Pattaya Hospital has said she would organise this, and she can be contacted on (038) 427 777.

The Rotary Club
of Jomtien-Pattaya

Skal International

Pattaya Fun City
By The Sea