After having been convinced by Ben that I would meet my
Prince Charming on the train, and be able to save money on an airplane
ticket at the same time, I went on my way with the final train destination:
Illinois. Yes, Chicago, the windy city, the cornfields, cows and dairy products. The
rolling hills and more, and I might even learn a few words of the Algonquian
language.
Got on the Amtrak Coach from Houston to Longview, which
took about 5 hours. Boring? Not at all. That’s the only way to see
countryside and roads and of course catch up on your nap.
Finally boarded the train at 8:30 p.m. After I threw my
bag on the seat , I set out on my jolly way,
looking for my Prince Charming. Didn’t Ben say he would be in the dining car,
sipping coffee and croissants, writing romantic poems? “Sorry, we’re
closed,” said the waiter. Pout.
“Well, but you are welcome to sit and relax,” came
another voice from a distance. I looked over the waiter’s shoulder and lo
and behold, there he was, sitting on that seat by the window, not exactly
sipping coffee, not exactly writing poems. What could he be doing? “Excuse
me sir, I’m just passing through and want to know something about the
train.” I tried to sound as journalistic as possible.
“Hello, I’m the conductor, Phil Baker. I have to
finish this report but do take a seat. I’ll tell you as much about Amtrak
as time provides.”
“During the 1940s the passenger train began fighting a
battle against the airplane and private automobile. By the 1960s the
passenger train was rarely considered as a means of travel. Schedules were
erratic, trains were run down, and more often than not the journey was a
miserable experience.
“Then, in October, 1970, in an attempt to revive
passenger rail service, congress passed the Rail Passenger Service Act. That
Act created Amtrak, a private company which, on May 1, 1971, began managing
a nation-wide rail system dedicated to passenger service.”
Phil
Baker (right) and his assistant Ron in the Amtrak dining car
Chicago, being the biggest city for meat products
and packaging, became the main hub for trains. The route from Houston to
Chicago used to operate once a week until just the past 21st of May, 2000
when the operation became daily. Phil, 47, has been with Amtrak since 1971.
He is in charge of the movement of the train and loves the job because he
gets to see many interesting people (like me).
Born and raised in St. Antonio Texas, he now lives in
Arkansas in a town called Romance. (Romance...now is this fate or what?)
Besides his main job with Amtrak, Phil is also a prairie honeybee inspector
for the USDA. (I like honey, too.) He told me that it’s a pity that on
this night route I would not be able to see the Mark Twain National Forest,
which the train will pass very early morning, but I might see the
Mississippi River just in time.
He asked me what I thought of the US so far.
“Welllll... it’s not exactly like ‘Leave it to Beaver’ I watched 35
years ago.”
We bade goodnight and I went back to my seat and dozed
off. Woke up early to the light of sunrise. “Mississippi River!” I
exclaimed. “Have I missed that?”
I dashed to the sightseers’ lounge. There I met other
Mississippi fans waiting for the river to appear. Like if we didn’t see
the river, we’d never get to our destination.
The
sun rises on the Mississippi
Mississippi came and went, but the fans lingered on.
Geoff, a passenger, claimed that he lost his seat and didn’t sleep the
whole night. I actually saw him walk up and down the isle, drinking and
visiting the smoker’s room every time I opened my eyes during the night.
I’d be surprised if he found his seat.
He said he was from Kentucky, age 48, and not acting it.
His mission on this train was to find his seat. Geoff loves life and enjoys
his work as a welder of tall buildings. He thought that USA sucks, that it
likes to stick its nose in everybody’s business but its own. All for
politics, ego and money.
“Sssshhhhhhh Geoff... you can’t say that, I’m
promoting USA,” I hushed him, but of course it was too late.
He said one thing he likes about the US is Alaska, and he
would love to ride a Harley there and settle down in the pure wilderness. As
we said goodbye, he asked if he could take my seat.
I went down to interview a waiter and asked if he could
tell me a bit about his life and work, but he said he was busy unless I gave
him some money. “Oh, if you got some money from me, you’d be less busy?
Uh... it’s ok, thank you.”
A gentleman happened to hear our little conversation and
asked me what I wanted to know about Amtrak. When I told him, man o man, he
came up with all the history of trains and tracks in the USA. And all from
his head on the spot. I broke my hand trying to write down everything he
said at high speed, and wished I had been a bit high tech and used my
recorder.
Steven Sulkanen is his name and he works at so many
places I lost ‘track’. A research librarian, working for the Union, and
a part time teacher of Solar Astronomy at the Solar Observatory, Lake
Angelus, MI. He said before 1950, railroad transportation was a major
industry, especially in 1915, but after World War II people started flying
more as there were more pilots after the war. Then there were more bus line
services. Automobile became an “in” thing as well.
Trains became more popular again with the Baby Boom
Generation now retiring. The elder people have more time and aren’t in too
much rush to get to places.
The heaviest traffic in the country is the East-West
line; Amtrak was created to shoulder the workers from going jobless in 1971.
All the railroad cars were collected to build Amtrak. Some small distance
and chartered rails are co-operated at a fee to Amtrak. Some abandoned
tracks are now used as bike trails.
At one time the government stopped the funding for Amtrak
for the reason that people who ride trains are a bunch of weirdoes. mmmm
...now that explains why I took the train.
As I thanked Steven for his profound insight of Amtrak
and was on my way back to the upper level, a girl called out.
“You stole my idea,” she said.
“I beg your pardon?” I replied, thinking that I
didn’t even have idea on how to steal an idea, let alone actually stealing
one. “Tell me Miss, what do you mean by that and what is your idea.”
We got into a very nice conversation. Ha! Another
interview, my boss is going to love me.
Kathy is 19, lives in New York and is doing her B.A. in
Child & Families Studies. She told her dad that she just wanted to
travel and off she went. She was already into her 3rd week traveling by
train going everywhere in the States.
“What’s your purpose of this big round trip you’re
doing?” I asked.
“To show people that there are good people out there
and to write about it,” she said.
The
gateway to the west as seen from the school busses’ view point
“Ok, then,” I sighed. “I couldn’t steal your
idea, ‘cause my purpose is not to show anyone that there are good people
out there, but to see if I can survive the trip alone. See the
difference?”
We became good friends after that. Back to the
sightseers’ lounge with Geoff still whining about his seat, we passed St.
Louis and its famous Arch, Alton, the capital of Illinois - Springfield,
Bloomington, Pontiac, and finally I got off at Joliet.
The
capital building in Alton Illinois
The train station was spooky, and not only that, I had to
carry my luggage all the way in and down the steps and up the steps again
...what the heck do they do that for? I guess to make people so exhausted
that they don’t want to start ganging up and make problems, as I heard
that it’s one of the towns with a lot of small and medium size gangsters.
Maybe I’m wrong, but waiting for my friends Nessa, Kevin, and Caitlin to
pick me up in front of the station, I only saw police cars every so often
passing by and not one cab.
The
101-question girl, best candidate for future newspaper reporter
Met a cute little Aftrican-American girl who was waiting with her mom for
someone to pick them up as well. The little girl asked me 3947562937
questions. “What’s your name? Why do you have two bags? What’s in the
bag? Why do you have two glasses? Why don’t you put both on? Why is one
black and one white? Why do you have two jackets? ...etc.” How her mother
taught the kid only questions and never a statement is mind boggling.
My friends screeched their car in front of the station
and I was whisked away pronto. “Why so much in a hurry?” I asked, still
trying to admire all the historical buildings around the station. Kevin said
opposite the train station is the courthouse, and in its basement is the
detention cell. Great. Now you tell me.
Nessa told me we were going to Wisconsin.
But...but...what about Chicago? Sears Tower, museums, theatres, dining and
wining, Chicago yuppies and more?
“Nahhh, traffic is murder there, we’ll show you
someplace nice,” said Caitlin. We were then zoomed away with Kevin as the
driver of his Chrysler.
We drove along the natural beauty of the rolling hills,
fields and cows, not to mention ponies along the way, no dogs in sight, so
PAWS would be jobless here. At last we approached a big lake and all the
signs indicated that we were in Switzerland.
Interlarken. Lake Geneva. “What?”
Lake Delavan,
Wisconsin
Reaching the lake, you didn’t care anymore what it was
called because it was so so so peaceful and refreshing on that serene summer
day. Sigh...can someone buy me a house by that lake and send me money every
month? There were other lakes too. Lake Delavan was cool and quiet with a
hotel resort. Who cares about Sears Tower and all that chaos in Chicago
anymore?
All we did was eat and walk around the lakes and picnic
and went on a boat. The lake was vast and the water was like a sheet of
glass with occasional ripples awakened by fish pulling the bait. Kevin and
Caitlin are avid fishing nuts. I’m a napping nut, so they fish, I sleep,
and that was the deal.
A
grey squirrel in Wisconsin. "If you keep staring at me, how will I get
your muffin?"
After two days of soul cleansing in Wisconsin, it was
time for me to leave, yet again. We drove back via the old town in Chicago
towards Midway Airport where I was supposed to board the Southwest Airlines
flight to San Jose.
I was so hungry and wanted to stop at one of the
restaurants in the old Chicago town, but Kevin said no. “This area is too
dangerous.”
“You mean Al Capone and his gang are still around
here?” I asked.
“Worse.” And they just went quiet.
“Dion O’ Bannion? Terrible Tommy O’Connor? What?”
“Don’t be silly, those people are dead.”
Well, it would not have made much difference to me if we
were attacked with newer names. Caitlin just threw me a bag of cheese balls
to coat my tummy till we got to our destination.
Midway Airport was Midway murder of a second degree. I
thought I made a mistake and got into a Northeast Bus Terminal in Bkk. It
was worse than Capone, O’ Bannion and O’Connor put together. It’s was:
O’ My God. “Where are all these people going, don’t they ever stay
home?”
I hugged my friends goodbye and queued quietly in the
bloody super long line that ran like a snake up to the cafeteria on to the
entrance until I thought I was never going to make it in time. So I asked a
woman in front of me and she told me to just go to the boarding gate, since
I already have my electronic ticket. I did go half way, and an officer told
me that if I wanted to check my luggage I would have to do it through the
check-in counter. I went back. The woman said no no no just go to the gate,
they’ll take it from there, and that she had done it before.
I went. Dragging and pulling and carrying all my luggage
back and forth. I got to the gate and the staff was so kind and said.
“I’ll take the luggage for you, but next time check them at the counter,
and would you please take them up the stairs and I’ll take it from
there.”
Why on earth do you have to go up the stairs to get onto
the plane? What about those slopey things. I could not lift my bags. What
did I put in them? The staff ran out of patience seeing me struggling and
said just leave it there and she’ll handle it later.
By the time I got on the plane and sat down on my seat, I
was so exhausted I wished they would actually lose those bags. It would be
good riddance for the rest of my journey.
I decided that if I’m ever going to travel like an
idiot with loads of stuff then I’m going to weight lift until I get some
arm muscles first.
Peanut Airlines’ eye view of the Rockies
Southwest Airlines, famous for being cheap in price, high
in efficiency, not counting occasional delays, was also known as
“Peanut” Airlines, which not only means it’s cheap but it’s all they
serve on board as well. Oh well...
“Do I look like I care?” I ask myself looking out the
window to see the gigantic range of the Rockies, thinking what could be in
store for me at the next port.
Next episode: California Dreamin’