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Along the Mighty Mekong River
by Chalerm
From high on the Plateau of Tibet, the Mekong River travels about half its length in China, then it borders or moves through Myanmar, Laos, Thailand,
Cambodia and Vietnam. The seventh longest river in the world, the Mekong travels through these lands by many names; River of Stone, Dragon Running River, Turbulent River,
Mother River Khong, Big Water, and the Nine Dragons. Along it, empires, kingdoms, and colonial realms have been plunged into war and bloodshed. Death and hardship are its
legacy.
 The Mekong River in Yunnan Province
And through it all the Mekong has remained wild and free. It moves to immemorial rhythms; ice and wind in Tibet, and further south, the monsoons and the
floods which give life and nourishment to the people whose lives are tied to its flow. This ancient river has spawned only one metropolis, one dam, and few bridges, and no
industrial complex such as the Rhineland in Europe, or the Mississippi in America. But changes are occurring. The guns are now silent. Governments, long isolated, are cracking
open their borders and seeking foreign development. The Mekong of the future will have a new role to play.
On the Plateau of Tibet, the mountain source is high on a wind-swept glacier. No one goes there. The spiritual source is behind a holy mountain, and one
approaches with prayers and offerings, for to drink of the source and partake in its healing powers is to insure a long and healthy life. From this howling, icy mountain where
the weather is unpredictable, the Mekong flows 2,600 miles south, and ends in the warm shallows of the South China Sea off the coast of Vietnam.
 The source of the Mekong in frozen
Tibet
Roaring white water for its first thousand miles, the Mekong in China is known as the Lancang Jiang, or “turbulent river”. It seethes through a canyon in
Yunnan Province. Downstream rises the Manwan Dam, the first hydroelectric station on its path. This area holds one of the river’s most spectacular stretches, rushing through
canyons two miles deep. Further down the river, the Chinese have strung simple bridges across it. In some spots the bridge is nothing more than a steel cable onto which the
villagers and their children attach themselves with slings, and slide like acrobats over the roaring waters. This is not a crossing for the faint-hearted.
 Rise of the floodwaters in Southern
Cambodia
The oldest of the few vehicular bridges is the Gong Guo Bridge which stands at Baoshan, near the Myanmar border. Its battered metal floor was erected in the
1930’s as a key link on the old Burma Road. This was the mountainous backdoor supply route into China during World War II. About 125 miles downstream stands the Manwan Dam
completed in 1995. Over the next few decades, China is planning more dam sites to provide electricity for its most backward region.
 The Mighty Mekong River
Leaving China, the Mekong slides between Myanmar and Laos, serving as the border, then touches Thailand. Here, where the three countries meet, lies the heart
of the fabled Golden Triangle. This is where most of the world’s opium was harvested and processed. It has long been a region of warlords and armed mule caravans burdened
with opium paste. The Thai hamlet of Sob Ruak lies in the very centre of the infamous Triangle. The Thai military has since pushed the drug refineries and mule trains out of
the area. But the infamy and mystery of the Golden Triangle still linger. Shiny buses full of tourists have brought a more respectable economy with them. People think they are
having an adventure, for this is where the “drugs came from”. So in a way, crime, at least the aura of it, still pays.
 Mangrove swamp in Vietnam on Mekong
backwater
From the Golden Triangle, the Mekong River plunges east into the jungle highlands of Laos, becoming once more a wilderness river. Laos is about the size of
Great Britain, but with less than 5 million inhabitants. It is poor and isolated, and the Mekong is its door to the world. There is a shrine north of the old capital of
Louangphrabang. Here at the Pak-Ou caves stand 7,000 statues of Buddha. A climb up the lower face of a limestone carp reveals the ragged opening of the shrine. Most of the
Buddhas stand no more than two feet high, facing the Mekong, erect and timeless. People started placing these statues in the caves during the 16th Century when their capital
was under attack. The locals come to clean them and place flowers and offerings each April during their New Year Festival.
 The Mekong River along the Thailand
border with Laos
Two hundred miles downstream from the old royal capital, the Mekong emerges from the interior, once again, to form the border with Thailand. Another hundred
miles down river lies the modern capital, Vientiane. Unlike the mega-city of Bangkok, whose skyline at night now resembles New York City, Vientiane is an earth-coloured town of
modest population. Before the new Friendship Bridge was completed to link these two countries, an armada of ferries moved between Vientiane and the Thai port of Nong Khai.
Laotians jammed each boat clutching empty suitcases and returned with them bulging with the modern things they had bought. Free trade opened to this area in 1989. The ferries
used to quit at noon. Much to the chagrin of the bustling Thais, the Lao took a siesta. Now, thanks to many joint-venture businesses, trade is flourishing. Hydroelectric dams
will usher in the prospects of a richer economy. Laos has little to sell other than to export electricity.
The Mekong exits Laos with speculator drama. It foams and plunges through a six mile run of cataracts known as Khone Falls. As the river descends into
Cambodia, it changes character. No longer taut and muscular, it becomes a broad-backed river, nearly three miles wide. The landscape flattens out, and tributaries swell its
volume. This area, especially in the north, is where the forces of the Khmer Rouge ruled the country under a blood-drenched regime. Over one million Cambodians perished through
killings or enforced hardship. Here is where the famous Killing Fields dwell. Nearly every town, large or small has a killing field. The locals are forever haunted by the
ghosts of that terrible time. But there is resurgent life in this land. Phnom Penh, the capital city, is coming alive again. It is slightly bedraggled and worn, like something
left out in the rain. But the streets are crowed with activity and English schools are sprouting like mushrooms. It is the language of business, and they are determined to
learn it.
 Floating market in Vietnam
For more than 2,000 miles, the mighty Mekong seems a single minded river, rushing in twists and turns, and only slightly touched by the communities scattered
along its path. In Vietnam, the river luxuriates and sprawls. It enters the country in two channels, which are referred to as the Upper River and the Lower River. As it
traverses the vast and soggy delta, it divides again. By the time it empties into the South China Sea, it has seven branches. Vietnam is the most populated country through
which the Mekong flows. Here the life on the river teems with activity. In the town of Phung Hiep, the delta’s midsection, all seven channels meet. There is a floating market
created in this midsection, with tiny boats called pirogues which jockey for the best position, while the women bargain for the best prices. The river teems with fish and the
delta flood lands provide rich nourishment for agriculture.
Here too, is a war-torn nation. The Plain of Reeds is a forest of wild grasses and mangrove trees in the northern part of the delta. Full of crocodiles and
leeches, it was, however, a hiding place for Viet Cong. During the “American War” as the locals call it, much of the land on the Plain of Reeds was wasteland, poisoned by
napalm and defoliants. As time passed, the land has healed. The kingfishers and the cranes have returned, and the swamps are once again filled with reeds and fish.
By the time the Mekong reaches the port town of Can Tho, it is 35 miles from open water and one can almost smell the salt in the air. The mighty Mekong is
surging towards the sea, but access to the water is tightly guarded by police checks. This is true in every country where the Mekong flows, except Thailand. The river seems to
make officials nervous. Perhaps because the Mekong’s water flows through all that history of war and death. A bright dragon, with a bitter past.
“Clever” children party at Bangkok-Pattaya Hospital
 On-stage performances included
Thai dancing.
A large crowd of children, parents and guardians turned out for a year end party at Bangkok-Pattaya Hospital. The party was held to express gratitude to
members of the community and members of the recently formed club called “Fulfilling Children’s Dreams”, which recently completed a new classroom at the hospital for new
and expectant mothers to gain guidance on infant care and proper development.
 Children show off their computer
skills.
The party was held on the hospital’s 1st and 2nd floors. Hospital director Dr. Pichit Kangwolkit presided over the opening of the two-days of fun
activities.
The activities of the event were geared toward assessing the children’s knowledge. Various fun activities were arranged for the children to gauge their
developing abilities according to age, judging both mental and emotional intelligence.
After That charity concert
After all - it's Xmas
Mike and Toy, the owners of the After That bar (Soi 7) showed their charity spirit this year by holding a “Xmas” party for the street kids in June.
However, this Xmas time they topped that by holding a charity concert to assist the blind children at the Redemptorist School for the Blind.
 Mike from After That Bar (right) and
his special friend draw winning ping-pong balls for the lucky draw.
With a percentage of the entry and food tickets going directly to the charity purse as well as novelty “Lucky Ping Pong Ball” events raising further
funds, the concert party was a “sell-out” and Toy was thrilled with the response.
She plans to have a further charity concert in January and another in February, with the total of the funds being raised being donated on St Valentine’s
Day.
Sweet, sticky and gorgeous
by Ranjith Chandrasiri
Chโteau Raymond-Lafon is a concealed gemstone of the Sauternes, amazingly unclassified and yet universally lauded. Owned by the Meslier family since
1972 and now under the leadership of Madame Marie-Fran็oise Meslier as the head of the management team with her brothers Charles-Henri, and Jean-Pierre.
Chโteau Raymond-Lafon is located on the left bank of the Garonne River, approximately 40 kilometres southwest of Bordeaux. Raymond-Lafon is a name to
watch in the Sauternes district, particularly if one is looking for a wine that is close to the brilliance and majestic richness of Chateau D’Yquem - for less than
one-third the price. This small estate is next to the Yquem’s vineyard and has had an excellent reputation. The 1921 Raymond-Lafon was considered by many wine experts even
better than Yquem’s wine in that great vintage.
For three years the wine is aged in new barrels made of hand-split oak staves. The fine grain and compact texture of these barrels endow the wine with
delicate tannins that manifest themselves slowly, in small amounts, without overwhelming the wine. Thanks to the wood tannins, these wines will develop a better structure and
acquire very appealing vanilla aromas. The wood ensures slow oxygenation, which contributes to constant and sustained aging of the wine.
 Madame Marie-Fran็oise
Meslier with the author of this column.
The barrels are topped up every week and racked every three months. Harder to clarify than dry white wines, sweet white wines must undergo a greater number
of rackings and approximately 12% of the volume of the initial harvest will be lost to such operations.
In keeping with tradition, the vineyards of Chโteau Raymond-Lafon are harvested by hand, in successive selective pickings (tris). Whether an
individual grape is picked depends on degree of ripeness of the grapes as well as on the evolution of Botrytis cinerea, commonly known as “noble rot”. This is a
microscopic fungus that develops thanks to the microclimate created by a small river, the Ciron. Alternating foggy mornings caused by the Ciron and seasonal sunny afternoons
foster the onset of Botrytis cinerea. This fungus, by consuming a portion of the water in the berry’s pulp, increases the sugar content of the grapes and gives a
very aromatic, highly concentrated must. But, this evolution is not uniform on a given bunch of grapes, which explains why it is necessary to pick only those grapes that have
attained the desired concentration. The harvest is thus particularly long and may last two months, since their small team of skilled grape harvesters sometimes must carry out
between three to ten tris, depending on the year.
Fermentation begins naturally and lasts three to five weeks at a constant temperature of approximately 20ฐC (68ฐF). The harvested grapes have a
sugar content equivalent to 19-21% alcohol potential, if the yeasts were able to convert all of the sugar content in each grape. Fermentation ends at approximately 13.5%
alcohol under the effect of botryticine. This anti-fermentation agent produced by the “noble rot” kills the yeasts at this stage of fermentation, which thus stops
naturally.
When I received an invitation from Madame Marie-Fran็oise Meslier for a tasting of their different vintages followed by an exclusive dinner, I was so
excited about the prospect of trying out some of the finest Sauternes, off I went to Paris.
Madame Meslier had chosen one of the best restaurants for this occasion ‘Les Ambassadeurs’ situated in the most beautiful area in Paris, at the
prestigious Hotel de Crillon on Place de la Concorde. This restaurant, with its 7 different colours of marble, is the symbol of comfort and luxury. Lit by the radiance of
Baccarat crystal, the scene is one of sober elegance.
The food of famous master Chef Dominique Bouchet at Les Ambassadeurs is known to be creative, light and yet full of refinement. Madame Marie-Fran็oise
Meslier had entrusted him with the task of matching her sweet and sticky collection of Sauternes vintages of 1990, 1987, 1979, 1991 and1995 with his finest culinary delights.
Sauternes are drunk cool, but not chilled. It is great when served as a pre-dinner drink, but Sauternes are wines for entertaining that will be a
delightful accompaniment to foie gras, delicate fish dishes with sauce, oysters, white meats, game and fowl, creamy cheeses (especially Roquefort), sorbets, dried fruits, and
nuts.
Chef Bouchet had opted for a classical menu and had prepared a fabulous seven-course dinner. When the entr้e dish of foie gras with truffles arrived
on the table, I could hardly wait until Madame Meslier gave the go ahead with a “Bon Appetit”. The dinner prepared by Chef Bouchet and the wine selection from Madame
Marie-Fran็oise Meslier were a match made in heaven. It is always said that one’s palate becomes “sweeter” with age, but I have no trouble owning up to a love
affair with fine sweet wines like these.
Although I respect the established French law, I am still puzzled why this vineyard, situated next to Yquem, and surrounded by all the Premiers Crus Class้s
of Sauternes, was overlooked in the 1855 classification.
Raymond-Lafon looks surely to be well on the road to becoming one of the great classic wines of Sauternes. Unfortunately, the wine is very difficult to
find due to the limited production and the fact that Meslier family sells much of it to selected private clients in Europe. Naturally they must also keep a quota to entertain
their esteemed guests. Fortunately I was included in that prestigious list on this occasion.
The annual average production is just 60 - 70 barrels (20,000 bottles) and no wonder that every single bottle is precious like liquid gold. No one makes
Sauternes in order to get rich.
I look forward to paying a visit to Meslier family again in the future. I will then be able to appreciate this sweet, sticky and gorgeous stuff even
better, as my palate will definitely be much sweeter by that time.
SKÅL celebrates Xmas early
 Father Andrew preaches the good
word to the congregation
The local chapter of the SKÅL club held its Xmas party at the Admiral’s Pub, the restaurant of Bent Laarsholdt, one of the SKÅL members. The
Admiral’s Pub reverberated with the cries of “SKÅL” as several Aquavits were downed, along with bottles of red and white wine supplied for tasting by the BNK Pattaya
Wine Gallery, through the good graces of the manager, Natthachai.
 The English Choir
This resulted in a change of mood when choirs from the different nations took turns singing Christmas carols or something to that effect.
A Scandinavian Xmas buffet was the order of the evening, with some of the SKÅL club trying pickled herrings for the first time.
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Not to be outdone, the Thai chirping mynahs |
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La version Francais |
 (L to R) Skal Club
president Murray Hertz, BNK Pattaya Wine Gallery’s Nathachai, Pattaya Mail MD Peter Malhotra and Royal Cliff Beach Resort GM Andrew Wood test the wines at the Skal Club’s
Xmas party at the Admiral’s Pub. |
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And then a mish-mash of the rest of the world |
Little kids from the Fountain of Life Centre dance their dental troubles away
 The Bangkok Pattaya Hospital Dental Department has been looking after the dental
needs of the underprivileged children who attend the Fountain of Life Centre. In return for their generosity, the small children put on a song and dance display for the
dentists and staff. Sister Joan from the centre calls them all her grandchildren - and today they certainly were “Grand” children, putting on their dances with
toothbrushes at the ready.
More donations arrive to keep a young Thai girl alive
The tale of Pinrak Pornpianlerdsakul, the young Thai girl with kidney failure, has certainly plucked at a few heartstrings. Following our report where the
Bangkok Pattaya Hospital offered their services at a much reduced rate to enable Pinrak to have her live supporting blood dialysis done here in Pattaya, more people have
rallied to the cause. The latest was Porntiph Franks, a Thai lady now resident in Baltimore, Maryland in America who sent $500 to keep the dialysis treatments going while a
donor kidney could be found.
 Peter Malhotra (2nd from right) presented Porntiph Franks’ donation to Dr. Pichit Kangwolkit (center), the Director of the hospital,
while visiting Pinrak (left) and her father in the Haemodialysis unit with Dr. Iain Corness (right).
Peter Malhotra, the MD of the Pattaya Mail presented the donation to Dr. Pichit Kangwolkit, the Director of the hospital, while visiting the
Haemodialysis unit with Dr. Iain Corness.
If you would like to become involved and assist this young girl, donations towards Pinrak’s kidney transplant can be made through the Pattaya Mail
offices, telephone (038) 411 240, fax (038) 427 596 or email [email protected]
Pattaya Lions Club holds annual “Sight First” fundraiser
Many of Pattaya’s most benevolent citizens gathered at the Dusit Resort on December 2 for the Lions Club’s annual “Sight First” fundraiser.
 Sonthaya Khunpleum presented
tokens of gratitude to a number of people who had made generous donations to the Lions Club’s “Sight First” program.
Each year the Lions Club raises money to help disadvantaged people with visual handicaps. Much of this fundraising effort goes towards helping the elderly
who are stricken with cataracts and who are in need costly operations; it costs 5,000 Baht for an operation to correct the problem on one eye. Currently there are over 30
people on the waiting list for this operation.
This year, the annual fundraiser, organized by Pattaya Lions Club president Thirapong Hemawadee, culminated in a gala dinner to thank the many good-hearted
people with the means available and inclination to help those in need.
During the evening, these good-hearted people were shown a video that portrayed the people waiting for treatment. The video also included an explanation of
how cataracts affects the eyes and gave the audience an explanation as to how their charitable donations would be put to good use.
Deputy minister of interior Sonthaya Khunpleum presided over the opening ceremony, welcoming a room full of members of the Pattaya Lions Club, local
businessmen and members from the community and the private sector.
The fund-raiser also included entertainment for the crowd with a performance by the well-known and eloquent “Suntraporn Singers”.
Santa comes to town!
Last weekend, the busy Bangkok Pattaya Hospital had an extra sixty-nine people who visited the outpatients department. These were all very special people,
and included sixty-five underprivileged children from the Street Kids’ Homes, one Santa Claus and three Santa’s Helpers.
This was the occasion when Neera from the Bangkok Pattaya Hospital, in conjunction with many of the charitable agencies in and around Pattaya got together
to do something for the underprivileged children.
 What do you want for Christmas
little girl?
Whilst they were all very taken with the sight of Santa and his sack full of goodies, the event was much more than just a handout of gifts at Xmas time.
The hospital has made this charity event an on-going project, with funds being allocated for the children’s welfare and educational expenses for the forthcoming year.
Santa, for his part, was also very appreciative of what was being done for these children and he thanked all the teachers at the street kids homes for
looking after them. The children also showed their appreciation by performing some dance routines for Santa and all the many visitors to the hospital that morning.
Last Saturday morning there were no fearful faces at this hospital, and Santa has promised to make the long trip from the North Pole again next year, to
brighten up some little children’s lives. Thank you Santa.
Secrets of the Hand: The hand in General
by Anchalee
The hand is divided into three parts, namely fingers, the upper palm and the lower palm. These three parts represent the three worlds of palmistry which
refer to the mental, the material and the lower instincts.
 The elementary or lower hand
If the fingers predominate the palm in length, the subject is ruled by the mental zone. The world of mind is strongest and it is good for study and mental
occupation. This is the reason so many academics and literary persons do poorly in business. If this development is well pronounced, it shows an impracticable person who
lives on his imagination; completely unconcerned about affairs of the world.
When the middle portion of the hand is more pronounced, the subject excels in the business world. His main qualities are ambition, shrewdness, acquisition,
aggression, and wisdom. He is more concerned with the surroundings in which he lives. He will be materialistic.
The marked development of the lower portion of the hand shows the baser qualities of the subject and is indicative of sensuality.
A hand with the three worlds equally developed represents a balanced character. The owner of such a hand is wise, prudent, intelligent, and practical. He
is guided by an equal degree of idealism and common sense. These are the varieties of the hand:
Large hands: Large hands belong to people who are fond of fine work and like minute details. They observe all the rules and expect others to do
likewise, and can be very predictable.
Small hands: People with small hands are broad-minded and possess a pleasant personality. They are not interested in delicate work. Although complacent
by nature and easily satisfied, they are sometimes involved in big plans which are too large for their powers of execution. They may fail but are optimistic.
Hard hands: This is the practical hand. Its possessor is usually unimaginative. Hardness indicates straight-forwardness. This subject is hardworking,
reliable, affectionate, courageous, and sometimes undemonstrative. An extremely hard hand lacks intelligence and sometimes shows brutality or at least indifference to others.
Soft hands: Artistic people have soft hands, and they are theatrical in temperament. They are ruled by their imagination and can be highly strung. They
are sensitive and sometimes nervy.
Thin hands: Thin hands show a predisposition towards timidity, poor intellect and a streak of meanness. If the hands are skinny and narrow, this shows
a lack of energy or vitality.
Thick hands: Thick hands with soft palms indicate sensuality. This shows selfishness and over confidence. Thick hands with hard palms are the hands of
unskilled labourers who can never improve their lot.
Hollow hands: Hollow hands are a sure sign of failure in money matters and in all important dealings. When the hollow inclines toward the line of life,
it shows domestic trouble. If it inclines toward the line of head, it is a sign of mental confusion. These people need to focus.
Cold hands: Cold hands belong to people who are reserved, and unemotional, but warm hearted and generous.
Warm hands: People with warm hands have personal magnetism, vivacity, and strength of character. They can also be hot tempered. They are outgoing and
friendly and full of self confidence.
Broad hands: Owners of broad hands are more balanced, and have foresight, common sense, and a love of activity. These people can achieve much when they
are determined, for they have strength of character.
Long and narrow hands: These people are dreamers. They are not practical. They can often be jacks-of-all-trades and masters of none. Somehow, they
always feel isolated from others and are shy. Most have difficulty making friends.
Copyright 2000 Pattaya Mail Publishing Co.Ltd.
370/7-8 Pattaya Second Road, Pattaya City, Chonburi 20260, Thailand
Tel.66-38 411 240-1, 413 240-1, Fax:66-38 427 596; e-mail: [email protected]
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The Rotary Club
of Jomtien-Pattaya
Skal
International
Pattaya
Fun City
By The Sea
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