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Updated every Friday
by Boonsiri Suansuk


TRAVEL

Romantic Journeys: A nation shaped by nature

by Chalerm Raksanti

Japan is a small country. With an area of 145,800 square miles, Japan is smaller than California and larger than Germany. However, its islands extend nearly 2,000 miles from north to south, comparable to the distance from the Canadian border to the tip of the American state of Florida. This geographic spread gives Japan a climatic diversity unmatched in countries of comparable size.

The three story pagoda of Kiyomizudera in Kyoto, a temple complex first established in 798, is dedicated to Kannon, the Buddhist diet of compassion.

Although their precise origins remain unclear, the Japanese have developed a rich and diverse culture that is clearly a blend of East Asian, Polynesian, and now Western influences. It is true that the Japanese, for the most part, are ethnically and linguistically homogenous. But there is also great geographical and climatic diversity. The twin barriers of mountains and seas have divided the country into distinct regions with different lifestyles, foods, dialects and craft traditions.

The geological account of the formation of the Japanese islands is interesting and violent. In geological terms they have not long been islands, but at one time formed a mountain range on the eastern rim of the Asian continent, joined at the north to Siberia and at the south by Korea, and the Sea of Japan, a huge inland lake.

Overseeing the various rites in a Shinto shrine is the kan-nushi, or priest.

Up-thrusting mountains and subsiding sea beds separated this range from the mainland and the individual islands from each other, perhaps 20,000 years ago. This cataclysmic geological rearrangement attests to Japan’s precarious location on what is termed the Pacific Rim of Fire, a line of intense seismic activity that circles the Pacific Ocean. Japan has more than 40 active volcanoes, and several hundred more have been active in recent history. No one is more aware than the Japanese of the fragility of the cool crust that covers our earth’s molten interior. Natural thermal springs abound and scores of tourist spots feature bubbling pools or jets of steam shooting from the ground. Earthquakes, from minor tremors to prolonged, window shattering shakes are common occurrences. Nearly a tenth of the energy in the world each year is concentrated in or around Japan.

Located in the temperate monsoon zone, Japan is also strongly influenced by seasonal weather patterns. In winter, cold winds blow off the Asian continent, dropping heavy snowfalls on the Sea of Japan side of the islands. The Pacific coastal side, protected by the high central mountains, enjoys clear skies and moderate temperatures. Summer brings warm winds from the South Pacific, and typhoons, especially to the southern regions of the country.

The “wedded rocks” at Ise

These geographical and environmental factors played a large part in shaping the society, culture and beliefs of the Japanese people. The desirability and necessity of harmony with nature permeated every aspect of Japanese life, and these attitudes are clearly manifested in the rituals and beliefs of the indigenous religion of Shinto, which literally means “the way of the gods”. Shinto reflects the existence of kami, those deities resident in almost every unusual or prominent natural feature such as mountains, rivers, even large trees and rocks. These spirits must be appeased through offerings of rice and sake and entertained with dances and festivals. Shinto reveres fertility and purity, both closely associated with water, a recourse with which Japan is abundantly blessed.

Flowing mountain streams symbolize the flow of man’s existence, and the power of water to bring life to the rice paddies is apparent. The ocean, identified as the source of life also provides food. The warm Japan Current and the cold Okhotsk Current meet off the coast of Japan, creating extremely fertile fishing grounds.

During a freezing winter in Hokkaido a fisherwoman strips a net of walleye destined for use in fish cakes.

Since antiquity, the Japanese have stood in awe of nature, personified in the kami associated with the natural aspects of the land and sea. Insuring harmony between the powers of the gods and ordinary mortals required the proper seasonal rituals of purification and thanksgiving.

Devine status is not always easy to determine by visitors as a journey through Japan will surely reveal. A grotto on the rugged coastline or a simple mountain steam can be a blessed place or represent a part of mythical lore. Mount Fuji is the most beloved symbol of Japan and sacred to both Buddhist and Shinto adherents. Meotoiwa, the “wedded rocks” near Ise are joined by a rope and symbolize the male and female deities Izanagi, the mythical creators of Japan. According to the story, these two gods stood upon the Floating Bridge of Heaven and dipped a jeweled spear into the ocean that covered the world below. Brine dripping from the spear created an island onto which the gods descended and made love. Their offspring became all the other major islands of the archipelago which makes up the nation. Not scientific, but very romantic.


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